save your money on that link. here is is for free
http://www.instructables.com/id/EPV474YLF3EV2Z8V9V/?ALLSTEPS
also, here is some other info i got from other boards.
I have somthing of a system going for battery packs, mostly from when I ran RC cars alot, but it works on any battery.
Get a baseline for the battery, this can be done with fancy discharger (West Mountain Radio CBA-II), a charger with built in discharge (nicer RC chargers) or a simple lightbulb or array of bulbs that are rated for around the voltage. If you do the lightbulb way, simply time the battery till it significantly dims unplug it and calculate the capacity by looking at the drain from the bulb(s) multplied by the time in hours (the bulbs should tell you how much they draw)
Next I usually give it a slow charge, 200-300 mAh overnight, then test capacity again. If there is not significant improvement, I shock the battery by BRIEFLY tapping leads from a car battery to the pack. This should clear out any crystalization that is in it.
Slow charge and test capacity again, then if it improved, do a normal charge discharge about 5 times and measure the voltage. If it is 1v or more below the rated capacity, you have a dead cell, (1-1.2v low per cell dead) I would recommed replacing at least those cells (pull apart and test with volt meter)
Most drill packs use Sub-C size batteries, which are common with RC people. I would try and find one that is close to the same capacity as the original, otherwise the charger may undercharge the new cells and you would see no benefit.
I usually buy cells either as the cheap 1500 mah packs from the local hobby shop ($12 for 6 cells) or from cheapbatterypacks.com