13BT identification of bits

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

LowFour

LowFour

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Threads
16
Messages
76
Location
Borroloola, Australia
My RHD BJ74 clutch has died, can't get a new master cylinder in Australia - apparently it's specific for this vehicle. So I'm getting it recoed, but I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if this thing has a clutch booster or not.

In the first pic below, you can just see on the left where the master cylinder bolts onto the firewall. Is the cylinder on the right, with the 20mm pipe leading to it, a clutch booster?

And in the next pic, what are the vacuum inlets/outlets with arrows? Neither of them go anywhere, the one on the right has a tube attached, but it's just flapping in the breeze.

I ask because I'm having troubles with the motor not shutting down, I've checked the VSV and it does what it's supposed to do, according to the workshop manual, so I'm trying to work out where the problem is in the vacuum system.

thanks, Peter
Clutch.webp
Vacuum.webp
 
Hi Pete .Im surprised you cant get a MC,how is it different?. Are you trying to buy a MC for a power assisted clutch or a standard clutch?
I dont even know if there is a difference

I dont have a pic of a 70 series assisted clutch,but I think its the same as this 61 series(below). Ive only ever seen a power clutch on a HZJ75.
I was wondering if that loose hose was supposed to supply vaccum to the power clutch.
If your 74 had one,its been removed:D
12HT pics 005 (Small).webp
 
Rosco, I've tried a couple of places for a MC, a garage in Darwin rang around Australia and couldn't find one, and I just tried the Toyota dealer in TFC, he said everyone has stopped making them (including Toyota).

By the look of your 61, I'm pretty sure mine hasn't got power assist. Nothing like as fancy as that. That's good, I wanted to rule out a clutch booster full of brake fluid causing vacuum problems.

The second photo is on the other side of the engine, around fuel injector territory. No idea what those vacuum advance jobbos are supposed to be doing, I haven't had any luck trawling through manuals.
 
I'm thinking the two vacuum hook ups on the pump are the a/c idle up (lower left) and boost compensator. I can't remember how those lines feed on a 13B-T. Someone actively running a 13B-T can answer those questions in 3 seconds and a photo.
 
The tube flapping in the breeze hooks to the bottom side of the intake, just past the glow screens. That is the boost compensator.
The other one is an a/c idle up and it not necessary if you aren't running a/c.
 
rutbeer, thanks, it's not easy working out where all these hoses are supposed to go. The manual off the Birfield site is not quite detailed enough. I do run a/c, it's hardly even a luxury where I am. What effect does the idle-up have? It sounds like it might put extra strain on the compressor without it, is that the right ballpark? Whereabouts is that outlet supposed to connect to?

I'm following the thread started by danhr https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132335 it's good to see I'm not the only one having trouble with this little motor, although I don't have the mileage and power problems he has, just not shutting off. Could these unconnected hoses could be causing leaks in the vacuum system, enough to disable the engine-off shutter in the intake stream?
 
I might have answers to some of your questions.

a) The tube from boost compensator is connected to turbo air pipe. What a boost compensator does is , at higher psi it delivers more fuel.

b) For shutdown, start the engine. Then remove the VSV pipe. Then shutdown the motor by pulling the VSV upwards. Do this a couple of times. Then when engine is off, put the pipe back on. Start the motor and test. It should work.

c) The ac pipe goes to a relay located near the air filter. When you turn on the AC it just revs the engine a bit.

I am still have troubles with 13B-T's power:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132335
 
All OK now

Seem to have sorted my 13-bt problems.

I tested the VSV (worked as the manual said it should) and mounted it high up on the firewall. Still the motor was having a lot of trouble stopping, especially when hot.

I sent my clutch master off to Darwin to get re-sleeved after the fluid use got out of hand - I rang around a few places, they all said it was not possible to get a replacement / reco for the bj74 clutch master in Australia. Japan4x4, maybe I should put them onto you.

While I was waiting for the clutch master to come back, I pulled the booster out from under the dash. Give this job to your worst enemy - cramped and tricky. Once out, I tipped it upside-down and half a cup of brake fluid poured out. Decided not to pull it apart, just put it back in, bolted on the resleeved master cylinder and bled it.

Hey presto, now the motor stops every time, even after a 400k run in 35+ heat.

So hydraulics got through from a leaking master cylinder, ate through the seal into the booster, and (I suspect) part of the way from there to the alternator vacuum pump. Just tipping the fluid out of the booster seems to have sorted the problem, for now anyway.

Thanks for everyone's ideas about this.

hooroo, Peter
 
LowFour said:
Seem to have sorted my 13-bt problems.

I tested the VSV (worked as the manual said it should) and mounted it high up on the firewall. Still the motor was having a lot of trouble stopping, especially when hot.

I sent my clutch master off to Darwin to get re-sleeved after the fluid use got out of hand - I rang around a few places, they all said it was not possible to get a replacement / reco for the bj74 clutch master in Australia. Japan4x4, maybe I should put them onto you.

While I was waiting for the clutch master to come back, I pulled the booster out from under the dash. Give this job to your worst enemy - cramped and tricky. Once out, I tipped it upside-down and half a cup of brake fluid poured out. Decided not to pull it apart, just put it back in, bolted on the resleeved master cylinder and bled it.

Hey presto, now the motor stops every time, even after a 400k run in 35+ heat.

So hydraulics got through from a leaking master cylinder, ate through the seal into the booster, and (I suspect) part of the way from there to the alternator vacuum pump. Just tipping the fluid out of the booster seems to have sorted the problem, for now anyway.

Thanks for everyone's ideas about this.

hooroo, Peter
Click to expand...

Hmm... I'm having similar problems with my BJ74... as of yesteday my truck will not shut off and the cutch feels stiff, both of which started at the same time.

I recently took apart my alterantor to replace the brushes (but took off a few pieces too many). At the time I didn't think much of it when I found some kind of oil in the vacum pump section. I just cleaned out the old oil and repalecaed it with new motor oil. In retrospect it dosent make much sense why there was oil there in the first place.

Is there supposed to be oil in the vacum pump?

How is the oil getting into the vacum system?
 
Last edited:
It has an oil feed to the vacuum pump and a drain out. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the pump is dead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom