13B-T intercooler

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coldtaco said:
Hey, It's Stephan, the guy that bought Sheldons cruiser. :) I still have issues with my front locker, I can't get it engaged. I can engage it if I disconnect the cable and push on the lever, but that's not much fun in the mud. :)

Without seeing any pics of the underside my best guess is that since, for RHD cable length reasons, you ran the cables through the floor on the L side of the tranny hump (as opposed to next to the L rocker panel) that the cable is taking to tight of a curve to get to the diff and binding up. I think a longer cable would probably solve the problem. The control cable and diff lock do work properly independant of each other correct?

Sheldon
 
check out this collection of intercoolers that might work....

intercoolers

I ordered my hood pins today to get rid of the hood latch on my HJ to prepare for the intercooler install :D
 
Nice! Thanks for the link! Need to figure out how to squeeze an intercooler into my 61.. I'll be interested to hear how yours works out. What did you end up using for the IC unit?

Sheldon
 
Intercoolers

Hey Stephan,
You’re one lucky dog getting Sheldon's 70. I had been talking to him about buying it since early March but was short on funds at the time (isn't that always the case). Anyway I ended up buying another 70 and then the other day I bought a turbo, intercooler, and blow off valve off a newer Volvo. Should be a slick set up. I haven't received it yet but judging by the dimensions of the intercooler 16in W x 12in T and 3in Deep it’s going to take some work to fit it in there properly. My rough plans for now are to trim the fan shroud 1-1.5in then relocate the whole rad assembly back 1-1.5 by fabing up some brackets. That should give me plenty of room up there. The intercooler I bought is what’s called "top down" design meaning both inlet and outlets are on the same side. I thought this would make routing the turbo pipes easier but I am starting to second guess that because it looks like I am going to have to do some more cutting for the upper pipe. :doh: We'll see how it works out. Why do want to add an intercooler to the “BJ71”? Seems an intercooler would be more appropriate on a vehicle that’s in warmer climates. If its power your after I would suggest cranking up the boost. I believe you can run 12-15psi with out much worry on the 13bt since its DI but you should check with some one else first, get a boost pressure gauge and a pyrometer if you don’t have one too. Hopefully expect to see a full write up w/ pics late summer/early fall.

Later
-Noah
 
HI,
Yeah, alot of people wanted this rig:-) An intercooler is good no matter how warm or cold the climate is that you operate in. Summers here are in the 80's F. Just intercooling(if I do it right) should net me at least 20hp or more. I do want to increase the boost also sometime, but increasing the boost will increase the intake temps too, so then having a intercooler will help to reduce these increased temps and so get me more power verses just increasing boost. I was also thinking will need to move the radiator back about an inch or so. Trying to figure out how to go about doing this, mainly cost wise. Could go the expensive route or the less expensive route. Keep me informed as to your progress. Stephan
 
I used a Volvo intercooler out of a 740 Turbo wagon that is great and I swear almost looks and feels OEM. Fits perfect over the FJ55 radiator which is just a couple inches wider than a FJ40 radiator. I used some spacers to move the about radiator 2.5" closer to the engine and the intercooler slides right in. That would be a good option, I got it on ebay for $50. You can probably sell the one you don't use easily enough. If it were me I would take a measurement of your radiator, evaluate if you can move it closer to your engine, and see what the best fit is above from that mustang intercooler thread someone posted. Also it is wrong, I know of Volvo guys running 25 psi of boost through them and they hold up great...

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The problem with the 70 series is the lack of space between the grille and the radiator. On the BJ7x the radiator can probably be moved back, but on the 6 cylinder models there is no room. The Aussies have dealt with this by mounting the intercooler to the top of the engine or by making a modified grille that gives some space in front of the radiator.

Dave
 
>I used a Volvo intercooler out of a 740 Turbo wagon that is great and I swear >almost looks and feels OEM.

I got parts from a 7xx Volvo too. Low mileage T3, intercooler, and a blowoff valve for 180. I was under the impression that Volvos used intercoolers with the inlets and outlets on opposite sides, but mine is top down (same side). What is yours? Could you post some pics?

>I know of Volvo guys running 25 psi of boost through them and they hold up >great...

Wow that's nuts. I am not sure I would trust it that pressure. I was reading on www.turbobricks.org that you shouldn't run over 13psi (which I wouldn't with the 3B).

>Aussies have dealt with this by mounting the intercooler to the top of the >engine

Yeah I have seen some top mount intercoolers on my friends 300TDI powered :censor: 110 and my buddies new STI (which the intercooler is feed by a massive hood scoop and has water sprayers for further cooling). It just seem counter productive because a) It sitting there above a real hot engine soaking up heat and b) there is little air flow to dissipate the heat. Does anyone add an electric fan with the top mount setups? I think the MR2 does. We'll see what I do soon when I actually get my parts and I am not talking out of my :censor:

-NS
:cheers:
 
So I'm assuming that these intercoolers would have some sort of rated capacity that they are able to handle...PSI, CFM, etc.? If I am looking at purchasing one, it would probably make more sense if I looked at one that came from an engine of similar displacement than mine? I've got a line on one that is from a Saab 900T...but I think that engine is a 2L gasser and mine is abviously a 3.4L diesel. What do the experts figure...too small of an intercooler? Thanks.
 
Sorry for the late reply. Supprised no one spoke up. From my research., it seems that the bigger the better. Need to find something that will fit dimensionally in the space in front of the radiator and then redo the radiator and move it back as far as needed. Will need to make new mounts for both though. I am thinking that a intercooler that has the inlet/outlet on the top would probably work the best.
 
For simplicity why not try an air-water intercooler? The install is a bit more involved, but nothing that requires an engineering degree. I chose this route on my old 86 4-Runner w/ factory turbocharged 22RTE engine. There are even some nice factory Toyota intercoolers that could look like the factory intended them to be there. Here's an early picture of the unit on my 4-Runner.

toyotaic.jpg


86 - 89 Celica ST185 All Trac cars have that intercooler with associated plumbing. They produce nearly 200hp stock w/ this IC, so it should be a good size for the 13BT. I actually have one I may sell if you are interested. They also show up ebay now and again.
 
Liquid intercoolers have thier own coolant loop that is separate from the engine cooling system. They consist of the IC core, a small electric pump, reservoir, front mount radiator, and lines. The pump can be run full time, or switched on via a boost sensitive switch. Coolant is typically water/anitfreeze, though I have heard of other coolant types being used. LMK if you'd like more info. Pick up a copy of Turbocharged by Corky Bell, great read with excellent info.
 
I've got a copy of an Australian 4WD Monthly here that has an article on a custom BJ73 (BJ74 now due to the 13BT transplant). He moved the rad back and used an intercooler from a Nissan Skyline twin-turbo (GT-R). Boost was bumped to 13lbs, pump turned up, and injectors worked. I have not taken the time to research the net for pictures or stats on this intercooler.

Don't know if that helps much, but more info non the less.

gb
 

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