134AC in 86Runner

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flash02

flash02

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Threads
67
Messages
588
Location
Elizabeth City, NC
I just installed a new AC pump, expansion valve, replaced ALL the Orings and Serviced my AC, I got the air temp down to 45dg, now my issue is air flow, on hi the blower seems to be bit weak. I've replaced the blower resistor and all four speeds work, it just seems a bit weak on the high speed, thinking the blower motor is the logical thing to replace. I have had the ENTIRE heating and AC system apart so I know the evap and heater core are clear of foreign matter, I also re sealed the system. Has anyone had these issues before, has a new blower motor fixed the problem?
 
Ok well a new blower motor did not fix it. I hooked the motor directly to the battery, without a doubt the fan speed is better, so what is next? I've replaced the blower resistor, the fan responds to the corresponding positions on the fan select switch....all for speeds and off. Any suggestions?
 
Lowe Toyota said:
Weak ground or something?

Sent from my iPhone.
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:hhmm: Torched, worn, or gone motor contacts too, there's a recent thread IIRC on the board somewhere. Also turn it on and carefully reach under the dash and see if any of the weatherstrip has worn off the duct fittings and is letting all that air conveniently cool your wires and dash structure for ya from all the air escaping the intended path.
 
NorCalBorn said:
:hhmm: Torched, worn, or gone motor contacts too, there's a recent thread IIRC on the board somewhere. Also turn it on and carefully reach under the dash and see if any of the weatherstrip has worn off the duct fittings and is letting all that air conveniently cool your wires and dash structure for ya from all the air escaping the intended path.
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New motor, like I seed if I hook it directly to the battery I get better flow, one would think that there is a voltage drop somewhere, probably in the switch. I'm going to hook a meter up to the wires and see what the voltage is on all four fan settings.
 
Subscribed

I have the same damn problem too. Just got my Ac working. Last time it worked was in 04. I replaced the evap core, expansion valve, and drier. Temp vents when under load is about 48 degrees.

Maybe it is something with the 134A freon? I remember when I truck was R12 it blew harder.

Please post up when you find the culprit.
 
packetstormin said:
Subscribed

I have the same damn problem too. Just got my Ac working. Last time it worked was in 04. I replaced the evap core, expansion valve, and drier. Temp vents when under load is about 48 degrees.

Maybe it is something with the 134A freon? I remember when I truck was R12 it blew harder.

Please post up when you find the culprit.
Click to expand...

Well I'm replacing the evap, condenser, and expansion valve, I'll let you know how it goes. The condenser I'm getting is a redesign of the original, the manufacture redesigned it as a parallel condenser, this should work much better with R134A. The evaporator, new from eBay, and the expansion valve is a OEM Denso part, of course I will be replacing the drier. Everything I've read about 134 is that you only service the system 75-80% of what the old R12 system would have been. Have you replaced the compressor, have you done a leak down to see of the system is leak free? I can't even get mine past 60 driving down the road and I've replaced the compressor.
I've included a link to Genesis Auto parts, this is where I ordered my condenser from, the first one for $40.00 Witt the pre cooler is what I ordered, it is a Parallel style condenser.

Two big issues with automotive AC systems are, 1- is the fan pulling air across the condenser, the condenser is external to the cab positioned in front of the radiator, if the clutch on you fan is week or worn out the performance of the AC will be very poor until you get up to speed, 2- if the evaporator box is not sealed up and can suck in air or blow air out prior to the air vents then the overall temp and velocity of the air coming out of the ducts will be poor.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/condenser-toyota-4runner-1986.htm
 
My condenser is a replacement non oe part. All the other parts I mentioned are denso brand. The fan clutch is doing its job as I can feel a good pull in front of the condenser. My truck still has the original compressor. I even put in all new o-rings everywhere. No leaks, as it held a vacuum for 30 minutes.

Going down the road my temps hit 48 which isn't to bad. I just want more air coming out of the vents.

How would I go about checking whether or not my evap box is sealed?
 
packetstormin said:
My condenser is a replacement non oe part. All the other parts I mentioned are denso brand. The fan clutch is doing its job as I can feel a good pull in front of the condenser. My truck still has the original compressor. I even put in all new o-rings everywhere. No leaks, as it held a vacuum for 30 minutes.

Going down the road my temps hit 48 which isn't to bad. I just want more air coming out of the vents.

How would I go about checking whether or not my evap box is sealed?
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Ok 48 is great, at least for me, you could have a worn blower motor, blower resistor, or blower switch, hook a meter up to the blower wires and see what the voltage is at the high setting. To check your ductwork it's just a matter of feeling around for leaks.
 
Just got my AC working again in my runner, original compressor, condenser, evap, but all new o-rings and drier and filled with r134. You guys getting 48 degrees must be doing something right. With ambient of 83deg, I measured 67 blowing out my center vents.

I am now working on sealing up all the vent tubes, because I noticed that the under the steering wheel crotch vent blows air out all around it, and if you stick your hand in the glovebox, past that black vinyl sheet, I can feel cold air blowing in there. I'll have to feel around the evaporator box to see if that is leaking too. Another thing I might do is wrap the vent tubes in some kind of insulating tape.

I normally ran my truck with the fan shroud off out of laziness, but to make sure I maximize airflow across the condenser at idle, I put it back on. Has to help a tiny bit.

I'll re-measure my vent temps once I get it all sealed up and report back.
 
coryc85 said:
Just got my AC working again in my runner, original compressor, condenser, evap, but all new o-rings and drier and filled with r134. You guys getting 48 degrees must be doing something right. With ambient of 83deg, I measured 67 blowing out my center vents.

I am now working on sealing up all the vent tubes, because I noticed that the under the steering wheel crotch vent blows air out all around it, and if you stick your hand in the glovebox, past that black vinyl sheet, I can feel cold air blowing in there. I'll have to feel around the evaporator box to see if that is leaking too. Another thing I might do is wrap the vent tubes in some kind of insulating tape.

I normally ran my truck with the fan shroud off out of laziness, but to make sure I maximize airflow across the condenser at idle, I put it back on. Has to help a tiny bit.

I'll re-measure my vent temps once I get it all sealed up and report back.
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Is that temp while driving or just sitting idle, If it is at idle suspect a fan clutch and for the love of your engine STOP being lazy and put the fan shroud BACK on, it helps the fans do a MUCH better job of pulling air.

Good luck!
 
flash02 said:
Is that temp while driving or just sitting idle, If it is at idle suspect a fan clutch and for the love of your engine STOP being lazy and put the fan shroud BACK on, it helps the fans do a MUCH better job of pulling air.

Good luck!
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That temp is sitting idle, shroud was off for that measurement BUT I had an electric box fan hooked up on high to move some air. I put the shroud back on right after that, I'm done being lazy!

Anyone have any tips on sealing up the evaporator? Looks like I can replace the foam seal on the inlet and outlet...I'm wondering if I can open it and do that without removing the evaporator core itself since I'm already all charged up.

2476221520085694847S600x600Q85.jpg
 
coryc85 said:
That temp is sitting idle, shroud was off for that measurement BUT I had an electric box fan hooked up on high to move some air. I put the shroud back on right after that, I'm done being lazy!

Anyone have any tips on sealing up the evaporator? Looks like I can replace the foam seal on the inlet and outlet...I'm wondering if I can open it and do that without removing the evaporator core itself since I'm already all charged up.
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I got some foam window and door seals from Lowes, it's more of a dense neoprene, about 1/4 - 1/2" wide, you'll have to disconnect the evaporator from the system to remove it from the truck, so sorry but there is no way to completely resealed the system any other way. I just replaced my evaporator, condenser, and expansion valve, I'll post up temps tonight after the system has been recharged.
 
Flash, how is the blower working now? Any better volume of air?
 
packetstormin said:
Flash, how is the blower working now? Any better volume of air?
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Yeah not too bad, I still think it could be better,the switch probably needs some cleaning. The AC is finally fixed, new evaporator, Denso expansion valve and drier, new condenser.
 
R12 to R134a AC retrofit FYI

the Denso AC compressor holds 7oz of PAG 46 oil, the system was designed to hold 1 1/2 lbs of R12, all my research says to service to about 70% and check air temps, add more R134a but NO more then originally called for of R12. Replace ALL O'rings, replace any deteriorated AC hoses and lines. If the blower is running slow suspect the blower resistor, poor grounds, and or the switch, all off the aforementioned parts. Poor air flow can be linked to poorly sealed ducts and or evap/heater boxes. The only issue I've had during the retro fit is not being able to find the correct size R134a service fitting for the high side, as such I was unable to check the high side pressures, however the low side pressures were spot on and cold air is blowing out of the vents.

I hope this helps people out, perhaps some of the information I've posted in regards to the HVAC system can be put in the FAQ section for further use, all of this has been done on a 1986 Toyota 4Runner DLX 2.4L 22RE, 5spd.
 
Flash - I bought the 3/8-24 (3/16") 16 MM Coupler for the high side from ackits.com, fits perfect. For the low side, I bought their low-side 90 degree adapter.

Good info in this thread, in case it gets added to the FAQ, I found this Toyota TSB about converting to R134: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4BjSR9yo7unbzJUZXdzUG9RT3c
 
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