12V radio

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eleblanc

eleblanc

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Threads
268
Messages
2,960
Location
Montreal
Here is the story,

I have a 24v 12v converter, i finally disconnected the tap on the 12V batterie and plugged everthing on the converter, except for the evil head light center tap.

Now my radio needs 2x 12v input, one always on, i guess for memory and stuff, and the other one hook on the accessories.

Obviously i don't have 2 converter, my one and only converter is connected to the "ON" contact of the fuse box, or the same has the motor and not the accessories. The reason is because i have gage and switch with lights that use 12V, for exemple my compressor gage light, my Lock switch. If i'd put the converter on live battery current that is always on, those light would kill the battery.

Unless there is very small and cheap 24v 12v converter for something like 1-2 amps i'd be willing to buy one. But do you think i could instead buy a small 12v portable lamp battery and hook the radio on it. I don't run the truck during the winter (nov-april) so do you think a battery would last summer?

Maybe some have other suggestion to have 12V; all the time, on accessories, or "ON"
 
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Now that i'm thinking about this again, My ARB solenoid switch were feed with 12V tap from a battery. That was very convenient, because all know when you are wheeling with a group you stop often, and prior to have the tap for the switch my lockers would disengage each time i stoped the truck, a real pain, and that was the reason i took 12v directly from a battery. I'm going to move the converter from the "on" current of the fuse box to the accessories.

If you think a batteries would be fine for the radio memory i'll go that way, otherwise i'll look for a small converter. What a pain..
 
Use the search function...;) I had suggested in several previous threads to have your converter constantly on, giving you the constant 12V that you need, and then running a 24V relay connected to your ACC/IGN to turn your stereo on and off as you need. :) I use Hella 24V relays easily available through places like Lordco.

BTW...I wouldn't hook the "memory" or "constant" +12V wire from your radio harness directly to the low-side battery. If you take a close look, a lot of newer stereos have a larger gauge yellow wire than the red (IGN) wire. Reason for this is most likely the stereo amplifier is drawing its current from the yellow wire and using the red wire only as a switch. This makes plenty of sense since in a 12V vehicle, the best and cleanest current will be a direct connection to the battery, which is through the yellow wire. This will unbalance your batteries in the near future.
 
Stone said:
Use the search function...;) I had suggested in several previous threads to have your converter constantly on, giving you the constant 12V that you need, and then running a 24V relay connected to your ACC/IGN to turn your stereo on and off as you need. :) I use Hella 24V relays easily available through places like Lordco.

BTW...I wouldn't hook the "memory" or "constant" +12V wire from your radio harness directly to the low-side battery. If you take a close look, a lot of newer stereos have a larger gauge yellow wire than the red (IGN) wire. Reason for this is most likely the stereo amplifier is drawing its current from the yellow wire and using the red wire only as a switch. This makes plenty of sense since in a 12V vehicle, the best and cleanest current will be a direct connection to the battery, which is through the yellow wire. This will unbalance your batteries in the near future.
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That is a good idea i'll look for relays, if you happen to have hella part number that be great, i doubt we have "Lordco" around here

No i do no plan on tapping a battery, i've just remove all of them
 
Series

Im sorry, maybe I am not getting something...or not reading something. But why cant you get your "constant" power off both batteries (series) run a lead off both +'s/ the draw would be even and power usage low since its just used mainly for memory. And use a power stepdown/reducer for keyed and other accessories?
 
In2cruisers said:
Im sorry, maybe I am not getting something...or not reading something. But why cant you get your "constant" power off both batteries (series) run a lead off both +'s/ the draw would be even and power usage low since its just used mainly for memory. And use a power stepdown/reducer for keyed and other accessories?
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You'll get +24V from the lead coming from the high side battery unless you have a way of grounding directly to each battery. And as I've said before, I don't think most newer decks "just" use the yellow wire for memory, it's also to power the amp inside the deck with the red wire switching it on and off.

At the end of the day, much safer and easier to run it off of your converter, which you need for your other accessories anyway, and run a 24V relay to switch whatever you need to be IGN switched in your vehicle.
 
Stone said:
and run a 24V relay to switch whatever you need to be IGN switched in your vehicle.
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I am definitely not a rocket scientist when it comes to electrical.....So the relay would take in 24v produce 12v ???
 
No, the relay would carry 12V (from the converter) and be switched by 24V.
 
I am also getting tired of setting my radio stations every time I start my truck. I think I am going to make a basic step down transformer out of Radio Shacks old school schematic catalogs. I don't need anything all complicated for the memory wire.....should cost less than $10 to build.:cheers:
 
isalwaysright said:
JC Whitney

Volta Drop voltage reducer Model 24-12 has 2,3 & 4 amp poles off the box.
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Probably not enough jiuce if the head unit pulls power for its amplifier through the memory wire. Otherwise fine for just memory.
 
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