ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
A-la E60 M5?
I'd like to see cylinder deactivation become a reality to help with at-speed cruising MPG, personally.
Phrases that come to mind are "lipstick on a pig", "polishing a turd", etc.
100 Series performance upgrades available (3 Viewers)
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I'd like to see cylinder deactivation become a reality to help with at-speed cruising MPG, personally.
Phrases that come to mind are "lipstick on a pig", "polishing a turd", etc.
Let me restate my previous reply in a different way. There is no "tuning" to be done when you stay within the factory fuel tables. With an aftermarket exhaust on the 2UZ, you will stay within the factory tables and there will be no reason to tune anything. Bolt it on and drive.
Ooooo. Price? Power bump? ECU included? I'm guessing that's a $5k+ kit.
@suprarx7nut is correct - No tuning needed with the headers or exhaust.
I would be interested to see the readout from a wideband sensor on a dyno. At the very least your downstream O2 sensors would be pissed at headers.
What about folks running a CAI or snorkel?
What about folks running a CAI or snorkel?
7 years and 60k miles havent shown any issues. We looked at the data at the time and all was in spec. No O2 issues.
Intake mods dont seem to effect power on the 100. Toyota did a good job tuning the airbox. We ran a couple of scenarios feeding the airbox with a makeshift CAI pulling out side the engine bay - no effect.
Intake mods dont seem to effect power on the 100. Toyota did a good job tuning the airbox. We ran a couple of scenarios feeding the airbox with a makeshift CAI pulling out side the engine bay - no effect.
I didn't ask about power and price, it sounded like they're in the T&E process for the 100 series. I'm not sure how much info I'm allowed to disclose yet, but I have asked Jason if I can. I'll post up here once he responds.
In the words of Chandler from "FRIENDS" : "Am I not saying it right?"
If you're within the factory fuel tables, you are within the factory "tune". O2 should be the exact same. The ECU manages that very carefully.
Besides, the downstream O2 measures cat efficiency and to my knowledge not much (perhaps nothing) else. Upstream is a higher resolution AFR sensor. Downstream is a more simple O2 sensor verifying the cat is reducing pollutants an acceptable amount.
Happy to breath new life into an old thread gents. Honestly did not realize it was so stagnant -- forgive my ramblings. Fast fwd from racing slow economy cars: Torque converter is maybe definitely blown. Perhaps better to namastay in 'D' and let the self hating MD Prius/hyundai/scion drivers cut off en masse.
Completely unrelated: selling pnp Pedal Commander and pnp Unichip for 2004
I've recently reached out to XAT Racing, out of Tampa, FL. They produce cams for our engines as well as perform head porting and offer a vortech blower bracket. Once all of Ben's products are on the LX, I'm going to need something!
Porting does not do much on 2UZs. Cams do, but you need to blow a lot of boost in to get there. You are going to spend 10k-15k+ to get that power with a shop doing the work when all is said and done. For that money, just sell the 100 and buy a 200 if you want a Land Cruiser with more power.
I'm also doing cams. Going for a factory rebuild + mild cams and long tube headers. Suprastore also does cams, but it sounds like they may be a partner with XAT the description is similar. Suprastore told me they could do a custom N/A grind for offroad/towing ie stock powerband just bigger. Also know if Kelford Cams from NZ. Web Cams can do custom regrinds to order, anything you want, but you have to spec them yourself. I don't know enough about cams to spec them.
I've already collecting parts. I've got some Cometic headgaskets that will also increase the compression ratio by 0.5:1. Doing lots of other stuff like all seals, TB, wp, new starter, SAI delete, etc and hoping to keep it under $3000. I already have piggyback ECU to tune.
I fully understand what you are saying. I've built a handful of SBCs and LS engines. I dabble in HP Tuners to get my engines close after upgrades to drive it to a professional tuning shop as well.
My point with the factory tables is how do I know what modifications will push me outside of the O2 tables. The manufacturer designed it to have a specific range of volumetric efficiencies. And maybe they even set up the table to account for atmospheric pressure changes from sea level to 15,000ft of elevation or some finite number. If you start throwing a free breathing exhaust, porting heads, camshafts, boost, etc. there is a point where you are going to go outside of the tables. This is obviously the case with the TRD superchargers or they would not have provided them with a piggyback ECU to adjust the fuel further and control the extra injector.
Is this something that will happen with headers and a cat-back? I don't know much about the 4.7L. That's why I asked the question. It did with my 6.2L LS3, Kooks 1 7/8" headers, and a CAI. I don't have any delusions about having a high horsepower truck. I would just be interested to see if I'm running dangerously lean after making the truck breathe better.
As far as the downstream O2 sensors you are correct. They will only freak out about catalyst efficiency and prompt a P0420, P0430, or whatever the equivalent error codes are for this truck. I misunderstood the exhaust on these trucks. I thought there was a catalyst built into the manifold and another one after the downstream sensors.
As far as my comments with the wideband sensor, I just want to see if it's running at 15, 12.5, 10, etc. AFR with the various upgrades. Factory O2 sensors don't tell much other than how close to stoichiometric you are.
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That's cool. I've never heard of anyone doing cams for these trucks. Nice to know there's a shop that can do it. Hell, I would almost be happy to have a set ground to the new trucks' higher RPM VVTI profile. I think it's good for an extra 40hp between my 2003 and the later modes with variable valve timing. I wonder if it would run like absolute trash at idle and around town.
I'm also doing cams. Going for a factory rebuild + mild cams and long tube headers. Suprastore also does cams, but it sounds like they may be a partner with XAT the description is similar. Suprastore told me they could do a custom N/A grind for offroad/towing ie stock powerband just bigger. Also know if Kelford Cams from NZ. Web Cams can do custom regrinds to order, anything you want, but you have to spec them yourself. I don't know enough about cams to spec them.
I've already collecting parts. I've got some Cometic headgaskets that will also increase the compression ratio by 0.5:1. Doing lots of other stuff like all seals, TB, wp, new starter, SAI delete, etc and hoping to keep it under $3000. I already have piggyback ECU to tune.
Are you planning on machining the heads and block? In my experience with inline 6 motors and metal head gaskets like that cometic appears to be, any MHG installed without machining the block and heads is Russian roulette. It's just luck if it doesn't fail at some point because the MHG is designed to seal on fresh machined surfaces with very smooth ra.
Check engine codes will tell you when you're exceeded the flow rates in the tables. Others here have installed the exhaust mods you're considering and then some with no ill effects.
I can't speak to domestic motors and control systems, but generally the Toyota motors and electronics are engineered to work far beyond the typical factory applications. The legendary Supra engines are a great example. You can damn near double torque/power output on all factory electronics without tweaking the signals at all. Just crank up the boost and the car will increase fuel to match. As soon as it reaches it's air flow limits in the fuel tables, it pulls spark and throws an engine code so that you know immediately and no damage is done to the motor. You can bounce off that limit all day - you shouldn't, but you could. I suspect the 2UZ and most every Toyota motor from the 90's and early 2000's is similar in that it will not allow itself to be damaged if you leave the factory electronics in place. Worst case, you hit the limit of the table and you have to swap back a component. Bolt on exhausts and intakes shouldn't get you outside the factory tables on the 2UZ or any other Toyota motor I've dealt with.
Regarding, O2 sensors, FYI, the 2UZ has an upstream AFR sensor and then a downstream o2 sensor. The upstream is not a simple "switch" O2 sensor that just toggles based on what side of stoich it's on. It provides more detailed info somewhere between a full-on wideband and a simple O2. I think it's an AFR sensor with a relatively narrow range compared to a typical wideband that will read ~8 up to 20:1, but it's not an O2 sensor. It's an AFR sensor. The ECU will not allow the motor to go lean and cause damage without giving you ample warning. In older Toyota engines, there is a "limp mode" where the electronics restrict engine load and RPM when certain criteria are met to avoid you from ruining an engine. I suspect this is in place in the 2UZ as well.
Sorry, I don't buy that you can push 3x your normal power in a Supra without changing the tune. The stock internals were over-engineered and will handle ~1000hp. The stock injectors will not. Once you get into bigger injectors you have to tune the injector pulse width and other parameters. I have never owned a Supra so I never went into the weeds that much with tuning but I suspect you have to swap out the MAP sensor for a 2 or 3-bar unit to account for the higher boost pressures as well.
Press the PWR button, duh... and then slam your pedal until it hits the floor, thats a nice performance upgrade.
Agreed not 3x. But 2x? Yeah, just about. Factory power 7MGTE was 230hp crank. You can run a slightly modified turbo/exhaust/boost controller at get right around 400 at the crank (assuming typical drivetrain power losses). My 90 was setup that way. 460 would be literally double and I think that's out of reach, but 400ish is right about the limit of the factory fuel system and that's around 1.75x factory power.
I think during design phases the engineers set targets well beyond the planned release specs. Release spec of 230hp? Ok, let's get the electronics capable of 400 and detune from there. That's absolutely the approach they took with the MK4 and 2JZ. That motor is built for double what they released it at and it's made it the king of aftermarket import tuning, even nearly 3 decades after it's release.
The 7MGTE is a karman vortex air sensor, so no pressure sensing. One of the popular mods to get folks up to 400 whp (so maybe 450+ crank) is to swap the air sensor housing up 25% and up injector sizing up 25%. Simple bolt in swap and then you've got power capacity up to a little over double factory power. It's smart to add-in a piggyback to control ignition timing, but not required by any means. The mk3 was ridiculously cheap and reliable power (minus some oiling issues and blown head gaskets, haha).
The 2JZ in the mk4 might be limited more quickly by the injectors as you grow in power, I can't speak to that, but I'm sure it's well documented. Maybe in the next 3 years or so if I can manage to blow up the 7MGTE in my 91 I'll have some first hand 2JZ experience.
Only if you get it runningMaybe in the next 3 years or so if I can manage to blow up the 7MGTE in my 91 I'll have some first hand 2JZ experience.
I've put at LEAST .1 miles on it in the last 12 months taking it on and off the lift.Only if you get it running
