100 OME lift write up

[duggy]

I just put 863s in the rear yesterday and i did not have to disconnect the brake lines. The rear breather did pop off though.

 

[Actualeyes]

When replacing the rear springs, does anyone have experience on whether there is any spring tension left on the springs when you lower the axle? Can you lower the axle enough to release all the tension and not damage/break the brake lines, breather hose, or ABS lines?

In my experience its a close run thing ... Watch 'em like a hawk until you're sure when jacking up the opposite side. I find the DS (in Aus, so I think that is PS in US!) stock height coils can be maneuvered out/in with minimal fuss, but PS are a bit tight - nothing a spring compressor won't fix though.

 

[RobRed]

I installed 860s without issue.

http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/05/ome-suspension-lift-install-part-1-rear/

 

[paflytyer]

When replacing the rear springs, does anyone have experience on whether there is any spring tension left on the springs when you lower the axle? Can you lower the axle enough to release all the tension and not damage/break the brake lines, breather hose, or ABS lines? .

John,

I remember lowering the axle with a floor jack, then having to push the axle down with my foot to get the spring to release. Not a lot, just a little to give some space.

If you haven't already, try disconnecting the rear sway bar at the link or even better at the bracket where it attaches to the frame. That will make it easier. The OME springs will go in easier than the stock springs came out because they are actually shorter.
You'll see when the brake lines get taxed, there's plenty of room.

 

[Bloomer]

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[Bloomer]

Thinking of doing the rear suspension installation this evening. Looking at the threads and instructions, it wasn't clear to me if you lowered the axle as a complete unit (both sides descending equally at the same time or if you needed to support one side and allow the other side to lower to replace the spring (then do the opposite to replace the other side). Maybe it makes no difference, but thought I'd ask in case it does. What do you think?

I haven't done the final adjustments on the front end yet (was waiting for the rear to get done). I did crank on the t bars some and the adjusting bolt hangs down a little below the housing frame for the anchor arm seat and swivel (not the land cruiser frame). Not sure how many turns will be required to reach the final front end lift, but anyone have thoughts on whether the adjustment bolt should be fully within the anchor arm/swivel frame or if there is some allowance for it to be below it?

Sorry to beat this to death!

 

[Actualeyes]

Thinking of doing the rear suspension installation this evening. Looking at the threads and instructions, it wasn't clear to me if you lowered the axle as a complete unit (both sides descending equally at the same time or if you needed to support one side and allow the other side to lower to replace the spring (then do the opposite to replace the other side). Maybe it makes no difference, but thought I'd ask in case it does. What do you think?

One side at a time and support the side you're not working on with the jack... But watch those brake, ABS lines and diff breathers...

 

[dclee]

I find the truck will actually shift sideways if lowering one side at a time. Maybe I'm putting the jackstands in the wrong place (I usually put them on each frame rail end near the rear crossmember, I found that putting them up near where the rear lower control arm mounts to the frame is too near the tipping point of the truck). Any othe suggestions on where to put the two jackstands? Never was an issue on my old 80s.

One other question on the front suspension, does it matter if one side t-bar is indexed differently from the other, as long as there is adjustment left on both sides? Even if it takes more turns of the anchor bolt on one side versus the other (e.g. the bolt may end up sticking out further on one side), as long as it is an even lift side to side does it really matter? Just curious.

 

[Actualeyes]

I find the truck will actually shift sideways if lowering one side at a time. Maybe I'm putting the jackstands in the wrong place (I usually put them on each frame rail end near the rear crossmember, I found that putting them up near where the rear lower control arm mounts to the frame is too near the tipping point of the truck). Any othe suggestions on where to put the two jackstands? Never was an issue on my old 80s. One other question on the front suspension, does it matter if one side t-bar is indexed differently from the other, as long as there is adjustment left on both sides? Even if it takes more turns of the anchor bolt on one side versus the other (e.g. the bolt may end up sticking out further on one side), as long as it is an even lift side to side does it really matter? Just curious.

I have decent length stands and put them under the towbar (either side of it)

And I believe torsion bars are constant rate springs so as long as they are loaded up it shouldn't matter if they're indexed differently.

 

[Mike6158]

"2. Measure ride height by measuring top of rim to bottom of fender lip. This is with vehicle on the ground, suspension loaded. This measurement, + 2 inches is what you will need to reference when the front end install is complete i.e. you will need to adjust the T bars so that ride height has only increased 2 inches OR, according to OME, that you have at least 3 inches of droop/wheel travel. My ride height was 11.5” from top of wheel (not tire) to the center of the bottom fender lip."

I've already pulled the tires and installed the diff drop. There was about 3/4" difference in the measurements and I didn't write them down. Is this a must do for a full OME install (Slee rear springs) or can I adjust to correct height and droop once the TB's, rear bumper, UCA's, etc are installed?

 

[Mike6158]

This is a good thread on installation of the OME lift. So, rather than start another one, I'll ask a question here.

When replacing the rear springs, does anyone have experience on whether there is any spring tension left on the springs when you lower the axle? Can you lower the axle enough to release all the tension and not damage/break the brake lines, breather hose, or ABS lines?

All the instructions I've read seem to indicate this, but would appreciate some input based on others experience.

I'll second the post above, once you get into the front end, it's a lot easier than what I originally expected (the instructions from Slee and other posts here explain the process very well).

I did mine on Monday (2 days ago) and there was a small amount of tension but I just shoved the bottom out with my fit and put a little down pressure on the axle and it popped out.

It's only a couple of bolts, I'd pull the brake line, vent, and speed sensor (I think) bracket bolts and let them hang. To be honest, I didn't until I started lowering the axle and saw that some of the lines were starting to get tight.

 

[REZARF]

For step 21...

Driving the rear TB anchor arms off isn't easy and it can be a bear to get them off. I thought I'd add a visual to what worked for me to this one since it is listed in the FAQ and hopefully help out others in the future.

I took two vice grips and clamped them down right as the TB begins to bell in diameter before the splines. Lock them down with all you got with rounded jaws. This gives you the ability to beat against the "frame" and hold the Tbar in place while driving the anchor arm rearward freeing the Tbar.

Once I figured this out, I had both sides out in a matter of minutes.

Anyway I just thought I'd add to the already posted info. Thanks again to the OP.

Pic below is passenger side under the slider looking to the rear Tbar mount. You can see how I leveraged the vice grips against the frame and used the drift to drive the anchor arm free from the Tbar.

 

[duggy]

For step 21...

Driving the rear TB anchor arms off isn't easy and it can be a bear to get them off. I thought I'd add a visual to what worked for me to this one since it is listed in the FAQ and hopefully help out others in the future.

I took two vice grips and clamped them down right as the TB begins to bell in diameter before the splines. Lock them down with all you got with rounded jaws. This gives you the ability to beat against the "frame" and hold the Tbar in place while driving the anchor arm rearward freeing the Tbar.

Once I figured this out, I had both sides out in a matter of minutes.

Anyway I just thought I'd add to the already posted info. Thanks again to the OP.

Pic below is passenger side under the slider looking to the rear Tbar mount. You can see how I leveraged the vice grips against the frame and used the drift to drive the anchor arm free from the Tbar.

Love that idea. Sometimes beating from the very bottom of the anchor doesn't always work. It's a tight fit and that looks like it will work well and also allowing you to hammer with the drift in all positions to slowly work the anchor out.

 

[supafriz]

Does a OME lift utilize OEM upper control arms/ball joints? Tore my ball joint boot swapping out CV’s and deciding to replace whole upper control arm instead of ball joint.