10 years old Diesel filter

[pedrocalima]

I just changed the diesel filter on my BJ42 yesterday.

PO wrote the date when he changed the filter on the canister and that was almost 10 years ago!!!

Look at the pictures and tell me what do you think. Too bad, OMG the worst I have ever saw, just normal condition...

I always heard about diesel bug, fungus, rust etc. I think I can see some rust and something else that might be some fungus???

Enjoy
PS: I changed for a Mahle KC5, fitted good and is working just nice.

 

[hj 60]

I need a exploded view...

30.000 km dieselfilter, two years old, some veggie oil:

 

[pedrocalima]

I have no garage, not that many tools and I live in a building (no yard).
All the maintenance I do I do on the street

I will try opening the filter to see what is inside but it will require some effort.
I will try cutting with the dremel, on the weekend, lets see if some bugs pop out from the inside

 

[blis]

It looks better than I imagined for a decade old filter...

 

[BJ40ER]

HJ60,
It looks like you should put a big filter like a racor (or something similar) to run before your factory filter to help settle out and filter your vegetable oil, I did that with a truck I have and it really increased filter life. Also, what micron filter are you filtering your vegetable oil with before you put it into your truck? It looks like you get a lot of sediment into your filter there, you might think about running a finer micron maybe?

 

[lostmarbles]

I just changed the diesel filter on my BJ42 yesterday.

PO wrote the date when he changed the filter on the canister and that was almost 10 years ago!!!

Look at the pictures and tell me what do you think. Too bad, OMG the worst I have ever saw, just normal condition...

I always heard about diesel bug, fungus, rust etc. I think I can see some rust and something else that might be some fungus???

Enjoy
PS: I changed for a Mahle KC5, fitted good and is working just nice.

What you can see down that hole is what gets fed directly into your IP pump. So seeing anything at all in the diesel there is a worry. (But a least rust and heavy stuff are unlikely to get lifted into the fuel flow.)

As others have said, cutting the filter open is the only way to see whether lots of rubbish has been filtered out over those 10 years (and even then you'll introduce cutting debris that'll make it look like it's filtered out more than it really has).

I cut this one open:







It had been operating on a spare engine I bought a few years ago and was quite clean really..

PS. The liquid on the concrete is rain and not diesel. I'm not THAT messy!

 

[hj 60]

Hi BJ40, thanks for the tip but it is all ''hacksaw grinding dont mess with me you little filter'' maddnes debris
The black color is from a bit of 2-stroke oil and that was also on top of the filterholder.


I filter quite torough with settling, pouring the oil and separate the leftover for another settling, 1 micron filter, settling, magnet 75 kg, settling, upflow + settling 10 weeks, 5 micron, 1 micron, settling.

 

[BJ40ER]

Ah i see, it was hard to tell from the picture, it looked liek that nasty grit you get at the bottom of the barrels of vegetable oil. and, yeah that sounds exactly what I do to filter my oil, glad to see other veggie fuelers out there.

 

[Dougal]

I found the fuel filter on my work car was a japanese brand with only Kanji characters on it. The car was 12 years old at this point and had been out of Japan for about 9 years.

The cell-phone dyno showed it picked up ~50% power after the change. They can be a serious performance killer when blocked. To the point where the engine can keep cutting out under load.

 

[pedrocalima]

CAV 296

Hi lostmarbles,

I was worried to when I saw anything but clean diesel on the inside (clean side) of the filter. I think nothing bad really happened as everything is running exactly the same after changing the filter but I got worried.

Dougal,

I think my case was less severe as I didn't see any performance change after the new filter.

@ Everybody,

I was thinking about an extra CAV 296 on the fuel line. (I know we have lots of threads on that, have been reading many.)

What do you think?
Should I just put in the sequence after the sedimenter? My concerne is raising the restriction too much for the primer pump.

I think CAVs are mostly used on the suction part of the fuel line but maybe after the primer pump before the original filter would be an option?
How much pressure the primer pump generates?

Another point is the micron rating, I have no idea about it neither on the Mahle kc5 nor on the CAV. People say CAV has maybe 9 microns???

 

[John Galt]

No cause for concern. The intake screen, the sedimenter, and the filter are doing their job as one expects with Toyota LC quality. The average human can't see anything smaller than 50µ, so the lack of any significant visible contamination isn't surprising. If the filter is clogged you will notice a lack of power at high RPM, especially on hills. Filters are cheap insurance, replace as often as necessary for your 'peace-of-mind'.

 

[lostmarbles]

I was thinking about an extra CAV 296 on the fuel line. (I know we have lots of threads on that, have been reading many.)

What do you think?
Should I just put in the sequence after the sedimenter? My concerne is raising the restriction too much for the primer pump.

I think CAVs are mostly used on the suction part of the fuel line but maybe after the primer pump before the original filter would be an option?
How much pressure the primer pump generates?

Another point is the micron rating, I have no idea about it neither on the Mahle kc5 nor on the CAV. People say CAV has maybe 9 microns???

Unless you're mixing up your own fuel, I'd recommend sticking with your factory configuration of just the one filter.

My BJ40 was never even fitted with a fuel sedimenter so you've already got more "contaminant-extraction capability" than I have.

In this country (New Zealand) the fuel from the bowser is always pretty clean and the climate where I am doesn't seem to cause much condensation inside my tank. So I'm happy that any water that were to enter the fuel pick-up tube from my tank would be so small in quantity that it'd easily get trapped in the bottom of my fuel filter. (And besides, I periodcally remove the plug from the bottom of my tank to drain any debris/water that may have accumulated there ..even though I've never seen any.)

But as for installing an extra filter if you still would like to do so (perhaps from fuel quality concerns) .... While I think it's OK to fit a strainer or sedimenter on the suction side of our fuel pumps I think all FILTERS should really be on the discharge side. (ie - Between the fuel pump and injector pump)



PS. The filter I pictured above is deeper than the one the factory installed on my BJ40 so I guess I've already got better filtration in the sense of "more contaminant trapping capacity" or "longer filter life". Yet I believe the original smaller filter would still have been entirely adequate - especially if replaced every 20,000kms or 12 months (whichever comes sooner) - as the factory recommends.

PPS. As for looking at special filters that trap particles of smaller micron sizes ... I'm anal enough already without looking for further ways of needlessly lightening my wallet...

 

[Falco80]

Hi lostmarbles,

I was worried to when I saw anything but clean diesel on the inside (clean side) of the filter. I think nothing bad really happened as everything is running exactly the same after changing the filter but I got worried.

Dougal,

I think my case was less severe as I didn't see any performance change after the new filter.

@ Everybody,

I was thinking about an extra CAV 296 on the fuel line. (I know we have lots of threads on that, have been reading many.)

What do you think?
Should I just put in the sequence after the sedimenter? My concerne is raising the restriction too much for the primer pump.

I think CAVs are mostly used on the suction part of the fuel line but maybe after the primer pump before the original filter would be an option?
How much pressure the primer pump generates?

Another point is the micron rating, I have no idea about it neither on the Mahle kc5 nor on the CAV. People say CAV has maybe 9 microns???

My BJ40 has had an additional Cav fuel filter fitted for years now, long before I purchased it.
It is fitted like this....Hand priming pump-->Cav filter-->OEM fuel filter-->Injection pump.
It seems a bit backwards to me, as in systems at work we generally have the coarser filter first to catch large particles and then the finer filter after, but it's all good on the cruiser, I'm not going to root around with it. I could swap hoses around if I wanted to I guess.
I change the element every oil change because it's cheap and good piece of mind. I use either a Donaldson P557111 or CAV 296 element, both are under $5 each here. I change the OEM position fuel filter every 12 months.
I've had no issues at all. It is easy to prime with the priming pump, doesn't leak and I imagine because it is a finer micron rating it picks up a lot of crud before it reaches the standard size filter.
The Cav was fitted when I bought the cruiser and the first time I changed the element it did look nasty and dirty inside. The glass bowl was discoloured and had rust particles sitting on the bottom. I don't think the PO ever replaced it once it was fitted! Now when I replace the element it appears squeeky clean every time.