1.260/32 mm OD and 16 T

[island45]

With my T-case all rebuilt and put away under the bench it's time to figure out what to do with this input shaft. This H42 was mated to the case I built, and came out of a '78 FJ 55 I bought here on the island in 1999 to replace the '79 FJ 55 I lost in that year's divorce. Arrrrgh. I have done some searching here on the output shafts and two things stand out.
1)A new shaft is hard to find and very expensive if found.
2) Once a new shaft is purchased, it is just this side of 'no fun at all' to install.
I have been thinking of a different route altogether, and as I try to wrap my brain around the problem, the 'repair' evolves and hopefully improves as I anticipate the stumbling blocks I am sure will arise. Please keep in mind this suggested fix will be used by a 71 year old geezer primarily on paved or gravel roads and rarely exceeding 40 mph. No extreme wheeling. I have made my living as a woodworker for 53 years and have been repairing my landcruisers and ancient ford trucks since I was 19. The last 45years have been on the back side of Orcas island, 12 miles from our small town so improvisation has always factored into my repairs. Last year I added a very nice 12x36 Clausing lathe to my small, heated wing off my 2 bay shop.
My plan started like this. I would like to build an input gear for the transfer gear that bridges across the worn area on the 16 spline output shaft. There are about 1/2" of virgin splines on the transmission side and plenty on the back side of the gear that could be used to drive an altered gear. At first this longer gear was to be made from 3 individual pieces machined and then located out on the long section of splines and clamped tightly by the stake nut. Then the two sides welded to a new drive gear which I bought last winter. My hope is that with this clamping the welds would not pull anything crooked or out of alignment. Of course I would have to source these two internally splined sleeves. I have a pto gear, used but perfect splines that would make one, and perhaps I'd buy another new drive gear for 135.00 to turn down for the other side. But the plot thickens.
All these parts stacked up seemed burdensome and I started thinking about a long internally splined sleeve of correct size. Bore the splines outa the gear, press onto sleeve and weld to suit. They do sell couplers for joining two splined shafts. Haven't found a thing in our size. Oh... how about a slip yoke? Steel versions often list 45.00-65.00 new. I find lots of 1.25 x 16 and even 1.26" 32mm are quite common but these commonly have 27 splines, sometimes others, but never 16. Should I ever find a 16 spline 1.26 sleeve or yoke, AND it had a large enough OD, I could turn it down to the size for the oil seal to ride on, bore the gear to that size, leaving a shoulder to press the gear up to, then weld. And Yes I realize that this long assembly won't fit into the case unless the long side drive sleeve is about 11/16" long, a notch could easily be cut into the rectangular tab at the PTO opening allowing for a longer drive spline. With my one finger typing, the relatively simple machine work involved could be 1/2 done already. If you are still awake after all this, help me find a sleeve or yoke. Thank you in advance.
3) Find another H42 with good splines.

 

[island45]

Had some time this morning to chuck some junk I had here in the lathe and do a mockup of my idea. Having not located a suitable slip yoke or sleeve to mate with the 16 splines on the output shaft, I made my mockup sleeve using an old u-joint slip yoke from a ford that measures 1 3/8 x 16 splines, so the bore is slightly larger and of course would not be used in an actual finished piece. This yoke from the ford took a test mig weld extremely well, although it then machined more like it was cast. I would use a steel yoke in an actual part. For the gear I used my old ouptut gear from the t-case rebuild which had great teeth but very worn splines. I test welded a 5/16" steel bolt to it's edge and like the yoke I put the bolt in the vice and could not break the weld. Next I chucked the gear by it's machined snout for the oil seal, set up a boring bar and removed the splines and a little more to line up with the inner bore below the seal surface. In the end I decided to not cut into the factory bore below and so created a very small step of a few thousands . Therefore that small step will be seen in the photo of the sleeve. For my test I can wring the two parts together and they easily hold with gravity. The remainder of the unmachined yoke would be cut off and faced on the lathe at a point where it will pass through the PTO opening (modified or not) and a new, shorter spacer created. This shorter spacer may well be made form the same splined stock as the main sleeve as opposed to the plain bored factory pto delete sleeve. As stated the t-case input gear would be welded at the large step where both parts would be vee'd out for the weld, and this would be performed on the long virgin spline area of the uninstalled transmission' output shaft with temporary spacers and the stake nut and washer were torqued to spec, ten removed as a finished piece. This entire mockup took me 2 1/2 hours and cost nothing. If I cannot locate the correct yoke or sleeve I will move on to replacing the H 42's output shaft or installing the '82 split case and H42 into this crazy old jalopy. Heck, I have all winter.

 

[island45]

I have continued my search for a suitable 32mm x 16T with no success. In my searching I discovered this tonight.

The thread was marked at the end that it was no longer open for further discussion. Was interesting to me that there are others who have addressed this matter before myself. Of particular interest is the comment that Toyota did not give this input gear enough spline area. Were they ever made for the 16 spline shaft? Much more straight forward on the 19 spline case as it is split, but with a slight case mod under the PTO cover and a slightly shorter gear it is certainly a viable option for a 16 spline H42 output shaft. OK, enough whining.
Edit: I cannot link the post about terrain tamer's long spline input gear. But I was able to get this photo off that thread. Maybe someone can conjure up that thread for us.

 

[orangefj45]

I didn’t get a chance to read thru the entire thread.

However, I have 2 things to mention that might help.

1) we have new transmission main shafts in stock and ready to ship for $275. We also have the rebuild kits and synchro rings as well as lots of other components.

2) There’s not enough room to install a long-spline gear in the early cases since it needs to slide thru the PTO “window” which is pretty narrow. That’s why no manufacturers or vendors offer long spline gears for the early t-cases.
We do have new input gears in stock as well.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[island45]

Georg, Thank you for the response. In all my research I've found you to be the leading expert in this repair, so I am honored. Here is a photo that may address the issue of length. With these two shaded areas relieved, an OAL of 3 1/8" can be attained. At this length we will have 5/8" of splines on the forward side of the worn area and 1 3/8" to the rear. This 2" of effective spline will more than double the oem gear at 7/8" and the side thrust exerted on the gear will be carried at both ends of the sleeve, therefore minimizing stress at the critical weld. The weld at the step in the sleeve would now be only exposed to a torsional break. ie shearing a weld that is close to 5 1/2" long. Of course none of this matters if I cannot produce this internally splined sleeve.

 

[island45]

Readers of this thread will note that my responses continue to get shorter. YAY! ....I will summarize my findings with this thought:
A fully splined input gear could be produced that would drop into a one piece tcase with no alterations to the case. This gear would have an OAL of 2 3/8" and would afford full spline contact of 5/8" on both sides, or 1 1/4" total. It could even be reversible so it could provide a new oil seal surface at some point if needed. No welding and would just require a shorter spacer sleeve. Plug and play. My photo shows how much potential drive surface goes unused in the stock gear design.