Having trouble removing broken rear window arm mount from motor assembly. The nut that holds the arm comes off, no worries. Appears a small silver metal grommet might hold it in place. Can't get the assembly to break free from the motor extension. Don't wanna break it... heat it up...? Any thoughts?
09 Rear wiper arm removal
- Thread starter JM Stock
- Start date
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Looks like the arm metal bushing is rust frozen on the axle.
Heat next to the glass is not a good idea. That glass is $900 installed. Don't ask how I know.
First try some PB blaster.
Then, remove the gate trim to access the motor. See if there is enough space to grab the axle with Pliers (get a helper) and try twisting the broken arm using channel pliers.
If that does not work, get jour dremel out and cut the arm down until the remains hanging from the axle are small enough that you can remove the motor. The rubber around the axle covers a big hole in the glass.
Once out you have more options including heat.
Good luck!
Heat next to the glass is not a good idea. That glass is $900 installed. Don't ask how I know.
First try some PB blaster.
Then, remove the gate trim to access the motor. See if there is enough space to grab the axle with Pliers (get a helper) and try twisting the broken arm using channel pliers.
If that does not work, get jour dremel out and cut the arm down until the remains hanging from the axle are small enough that you can remove the motor. The rubber around the axle covers a big hole in the glass.
Once out you have more options including heat.
Good luck!
One more option, if you have a small puller you may try that. You may need to trim the broken arm down.
bloc
SILVER Star
I’d try a puller. There is no key way or grommet, simply a taper on the end of the shaft with knurls on the face to keep the arm from slipping, then the M6 stud for the nut protruding from the taper. Most likely the corrosion has bonded the shaft (steel) and arm (aluminum) together.
A puller can put constant force on the interface without stressing the shaft bushings or motor mounting points.
The new arm won’t have mating knurls, you just get the angle right then tighten it down and the shaft knurling imprints into the taper in the arm. I had hell getting the angle just right.. had to redo it three or four times to get the park position truly horizontal. I used the knurling on the shaft to scrape the arm socket smooth again then cleaned the aluminum out of the shaft knurls, installed, adjusted and retightened.
A puller can put constant force on the interface without stressing the shaft bushings or motor mounting points.
The new arm won’t have mating knurls, you just get the angle right then tighten it down and the shaft knurling imprints into the taper in the arm. I had hell getting the angle just right.. had to redo it three or four times to get the park position truly horizontal. I used the knurling on the shaft to scrape the arm socket smooth again then cleaned the aluminum out of the shaft knurls, installed, adjusted and retightened.
- Thread starter
- #5
Appreciate all the replies and ideas.
I ended up using a combination of drilling out the old aluminum nut and the plastic holder. Took my time, slow drill so I did not break that $900 window. Whole job took my son and I about 30 minutes. Amazing that original arm had bonded to the steel shaft.
Free beach rides for helping...Thanks again!
I ended up using a combination of drilling out the old aluminum nut and the plastic holder. Took my time, slow drill so I did not break that $900 window. Whole job took my son and I about 30 minutes. Amazing that original arm had bonded to the steel shaft.
Free beach rides for helping...Thanks again!
bloc
SILVER Star
Nice. FYI the rear wiper arm nut lists 49in-lbf of torque in the book.
- Thread starter
- #7
10-4 THX
