09 LX570 steering rack gearbox leak, feedback requested (1 Viewer)

[outlaw4shrt]

Hey team,

So I found a leak under my driver side LCA that looks like it started around a week ago. I believe it is the steering rack gearbox that other 200 series have reported leaking and had to replace before. My understanding is that to fix the leak you have to replace the whole steering rack, which requires removing the front diff, removing the timing cover, and lifting the motor high enough to clear the steering rack free underneath it. All that work is very doable, but there's a catch, I am in the Army and stationed in Germany and it's a two week lead time at best for parts, and if I have it done here at a German dealer, it could take months to get it done and back while costing at least twice what it would back in the states. I think I can get this done with a buddy or two on base, but I would need to get everything ordered correctly and all my ducks in a row before I start as it is still my daily driver.

So I have two questions:

1) Assuming it is the gearbox, am I good to drop in some power steering stop leak, monitor fluid levels, and drive it around until I've come up with the parts to do the swap?
2) I looked at a few of the old threads that mention replacing the steering rack, and I can't open the links that were posted in there for the shop manual steps to complete this job. Is there a good link for when where I can download it for free? Does anyone have a good how-to for how to get this done?

Lastly, my 09 LX570 has 189,000 miles on her and the ball joints look tired and my brakes feel a bit overwhelmed by how much extra weight I have on my rig at the moment. I am very much considering doing a tundra front end swap but keeping AHC (I love it) as well as doing the 2016+ brake upgrade. Is it reasonable to assume that I can knock all that out together? What else should I consider doing while I have the whole front end apart? I've had my AHC serviced recently and it rides great at the moment. I've done the front shock spacers and terrain tamer rear springs as well.

Thanks in advance,

Adrian

 

[bloc]

I'd get that skid off and confirm it's the rack before buying anything. It isn't uncommon to have an engine oil leak at the top left of the timing chain cover, and it can run down to that area.

If it is the rack, I'd avoid stop-leak, personally. The way that stuff works is by making the rubber seals throughout the system swell to be larger.. this cannot happen without also making the seals softer, which means ones that aren't already leaking will be less durable than factory.

@cruiseroutfit or @TonyP might be able to speak to the details of a rack replacement.. I know I've read that the official FSM procedure includes a fair amount of work that isn't strictly necessary.

I did the 16+ brakes and that is definitely a less-than-one-day job if you aren't dealing with any rust, which yours looks pretty clean of. Can't comment on the tundra swap but it's just unbolting stuff.. the tricky parts for people are usually getting the CVs out of the diff and fishing the UCA bolts forward far enough to swap the upper arms.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

I'd get that skid off and confirm it's the rack before buying anything. It isn't uncommon to have an engine oil leak at the top left of the timing chain cover, and it can run down to that area.

If it is the rack, I'd avoid stop-leak, personally. The way that stuff works is by making the rubber seals throughout the system swell to be larger.. this cannot happen without also making the seals softer, which means ones that aren't already leaking will be less durable than factory.

@cruiseroutfit or @TonyP might be able to speak to the details of a rack replacement.. I know I've read that the official FSM procedure includes a fair amount of work that isn't strictly necessary.

I did the 16+ brakes and that is definitely a less-than-one-day job if you aren't dealing with any rust, which yours looks pretty clean of. Can't comment on the tundra swap but it's just unbolting stuff.. the tricky parts for people are usually getting the CVs out of the diff and fishing the UCA bolts forward far enough to swap the upper arms.

Thanks a lot for your feedback. I acknowledge your thoughts on the stopleak, I'll take a pass on using that then. I took the skid off and tried to take the best pictures that I could. I couldn't see any oil on the timing chain cover, the cylinderheads, or anything forward or north of the steering rack. In the first picture it looks like the fluid is moving down and to the right from the steering rack gearbox. Fluid didn't appear to be engine oil. Was clear with a red/orange hue to it. I've been taking pictures with my cell phone from underneath the car so it's tough to get a good look in there, but is there another angle that I should be looking from/at?

Do you know if there is a link or download anywhere for the updated service manual?

Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and feedback, very much appreciated.

Adrian

 

[grinchy]

Parachute into the fsm thread here
Post in thread 'FSM for 200 series'
FSM for 200 series - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsm-for-200-series.765372/post-14229850

 

[outlaw4shrt]

Parachute into the fsm thread here
Post in thread 'FSM for 200 series'
FSM for 200 series - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsm-for-200-series.765372/post-14229850

Thanks, looking at it now. Some of this is foreign to me, but I'll read through it, post, and try to figure it out. Thanks!

 

[bloc]

Those pictures help narrow it down. If it were the chain cover you’d see oil along the lip with the 10mm bolts under the crank pulley. So fair bet it’s your rack, unfortunately.

While looking at those pictures.. it sure seems like there is some pink crust.. possible water pump. are you losing coolant? Or was it done in the past?

That’s the best method for the FSM, but it’s those procedures that some people are successfully shortcutting, though I don’t remember all of the specifics. I will say you can research what is done with a 5.7 or 4.6 tundra and most of the work on our truck should be really similar. They produced so many more of those that there will be way more info posted online.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

Those pictures help narrow it down. If it were the chain cover you’d see oil along the lip with the 10mm bolts under the crank pulley. So fair bet it’s your rack, unfortunately.

While looking at those pictures.. it sure seems like there is some pink crust.. possible water pump. are you losing coolant? Or was it done in the past?

That’s the best method for the FSM, but it’s those procedures that some people are successfully shortcutting, though I don’t remember all of the specifics. I will say you can research what is done with a 5.7 or 4.6 tundra and most of the work on our truck should be really similar. They produced so many more of those that there will be way more info posted online.

That's not great news, but that is what I estimate it to be as well.

Yes, I had the water pump replaced last October. I'll get in there and clean it up a bit and make sure I don't have another leak.

I'll get the service manual downloaded and see what other tundra resources are out there.

Thanks again for the feedback,

Adrian

 

[bloc]

That's not great news, but that is what I estimate it to be as well.

Yes, I had the water pump replaced last October. I'll get in there and clean it up a bit and make sure I don't have another leak.

I'll get the service manual downloaded and see what other tundra resources are out there.

Thanks again for the feedback,

Adrian

All you need to do to clean the coolant is run water down the front of the engine. It’ll dissolve and run the coolant off easily. Just avoid blasting water directly into the alternator.

Also if you want a better look at the leak area you can cut the big clamp on the tie rod boot. Just replace it with a hose clamp until you can either replace the rack or put a new OE clamp on it if it turns out that isn’t the leak source.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

All you need to do to clean the coolant is run water down the front of the engine. It’ll dissolve and run the coolant off easily. Just avoid blasting water directly into the alternator.

Also if you want a better look at the leak area you can cut the big clamp on the tie rod boot. Just replace it with a hose clamp until you can either replace the rack or put a new OE clamp on it if it turns out that isn’t the leak source.

Thank you. I'll make it my project for tomorrow to clean up the engine bay really well tomorrow (I acknowledge your comment about spraying directly into the alternator). Let everything dry out for a day, and then try cutting off the OE clamp and pulling it back to see if I can't get a better idea of and where the leak is coming from.

 

[Killacaviar]

I did my rack last month. Honestly, depending on how bad the leak is, I would casually get everything ordered and find the time to swap it.

It’s not a pressing repair if it’s a small leak. As long as the everything feels good and tight. If your doing a good bit of off grid driving then maybe sooner is better than later.

But nothing is going to catastrophically fail with a leak like that. You have time.

The rack took me 6-7 hours of hard wrenching. Lexus quoted me 10 hours and a local off-road shop quoted me 14 lol.

It’s time consuming, as you have the proper tools, it’s not as terrible as Toyota/Lexus used to make it out to be.

A tundra swap, and big break kit would add another 5-7 hours of work in my opinion.

 

[PDoyle]

This makes me want to flush my PS fluid now.

 

[bloc]

This makes me want to flush my PS fluid now.

Pro tip: get a fluid extractor and replace the fluid in the reservoir at each or every other oil change. That way it always stays minty fresh.

 

[PDoyle]

Do you pull all the fluid out of the reservoir? I was afraid of air leaking in, and only removed about 1/2 as much.

 

[bloc]

Do you pull all the fluid out of the reservoir? I was afraid of air leaking in, and only removed about 1/2 as much.

Even that’s probably fine if done consistently.

There is a mesh screen in the bottom that would be tough to get the fluid level below, so I think as long as you pull what’s above it and don’t try too hard to drain every drop from the reservoir you probably won’t have any air to deal with. Even then, a bubble or two isn’t a big deal. It’s a bunch of air that can make things bad.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

I did my rack last month. Honestly, depending on how bad the leak is, I would casually get everything ordered and find the time to swap it.

It’s not a pressing repair if it’s a small leak. As long as the everything feels good and tight. If your doing a good bit of off grid driving then maybe sooner is better than later.

But nothing is going to catastrophically fail with a leak like that. You have time.

The rack took me 6-7 hours of hard wrenching. Lexus quoted me 10 hours and a local off-road shop quoted me 14 lol.

It’s time consuming, as you have the proper tools, it’s not as terrible as Toyota/Lexus used to make it out to be.

A tundra swap, and big break kit would add another 5-7 hours of work in my opinion.

Thanks a lot for the feedback! I hope you don't mind if I try to pick your brain a bit. A few questions:

1) Do you have a parts list of everything that you ordered to fully replace the rack? It looks like the rack comes complete when you order it, part #44220. Was there anything else you needed or decided to do while you were there?

2) What did you use for reference for removal and install instructions?

3) Any specific tools that you needed?

Thanks!

Adrian

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Pro tip: get a fluid extractor and replace the fluid in the reservoir at each or every other oil change. That way it always stays minty fresh.

I like this idea. What‘s the preferred fluid for replacement. Toyota branded or ?

 

[bloc]

I like this idea. What‘s the preferred fluid for replacement. Toyota branded or ?

Check your manual but mine for a 2013 calls for Dexron 2 or 3. Note that the factory fill is not ATF, it is golden in color. But that’s what they specify.

I’ve been removing/filling with Dex 6 for 40k miles without issue, leaning on it being backward compatible.. and I had a few bottles around from my LS swap. Has been working great.

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Check your manual but mine for a 2013 calls for Dexron 2 or 3. Note that the factory fill is not ATF, it is golden in color. But that’s what they specify.

I’ve been removing/filling with Dex 6 for 40k miles without issue, leaning on it being backward compatible.. and I had a few bottles around from my LS swap. Has been working great.

Thanks!

 

[04UZJ100]

Check your manual but mine for a 2013 calls for Dexron 2 or 3. Note that the factory fill is not ATF, it is golden in color. But that’s what they specify.

I’ve been removing/filling with Dex 6 for 40k miles without issue, leaning on it being backward compatible.. and I had a few bottles around from my LS swap. Has been working great.

I've been using M1ATF without issue in the 4Runner and 14LX

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Check your manual but mine for a 2013 calls for Dexron 2 or 3. Note that the factory fill is not ATF, it is golden in color. But that’s what they specify.

I’ve been removing/filling with Dex 6 for 40k miles without issue, leaning on it being backward compatible.. and I had a few bottles around from my LS swap. Has been working great.

Checked the manual (2010 LC) and the recommendation is Dexron 2 or 3. Will go with that and add as a more frequent maintenance item. Thanks again, and apologies to the op for the minor thread hijack.