01 LX 470 - Center Diff Stuck in Locked Mode (1 Viewer)

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@tyl3rd i've done it on both surfaces. Matter of fact, i did it in the parking lot with the seller when i bought that particular 100 series.
 
Well the motor spins or at least tries to and makes noise. I tried doing quick punches in full turn reverse for about 10 minutes, triggering the "a trac" a few times so definitely spinning, still no dice. Would removing the front drive shaft potentially help? I can only guess that i've just got a s*** ton of windup
 
When you say it spins, does it spin continuously if power is constant?
 
Update here. Still haven't electrically charged the actuator as I haven't had a lot of time with work this week I dropped it off a local toyota/lexus independent shop. They're telling me the entire transfer case is mechanically seized and quoted $2k to take it apart to FIND the issue.

I had them change the oil in the diff as they said it was black and old and then picked it back up to do some research and evaluate. I haven't found any reports of the entire transfer case seizing on these 100s but I haven't been looking that long.
 
very rare that t-cases fail on these. are you able to switch from hi to lo? if so, then i wouldnt see how your t-case is seized.
 
very rare that t-cases fail on these. are you able to switch from hi to lo? if so, then i wouldnt see how your t-case is seized.
Yes, no resistance moving from Hi to Lo. I'm thinking maybe trying to tap with a mallet and try some more reversing now that new oil is in there. May be fruitless but..
 
I would try removing the CDL actuator first. This involves dropping the transmission 2" or so and then reaching up and unbolting the actuator. If it's still locked after that... then you might indeed be seized. They rarely fail and so I'd be okay picking up one from the junkyard for $800.
 
I would try removing the CDL actuator first. This involves dropping the transmission 2" or so and then reaching up and unbolting the actuator. If it's still locked after that... then you might indeed be seized. They rarely fail and so I'd be okay picking up one from the junkyard for $800.
Working on finding a time to go to my brothers to use his jack's so I can safely lower it down. Meanwhile, the CDL actuator no longer spins at all after the relay clicks. I did the battery test and I doesn't want to move at all either (assuming I did the right pins) (5,4) and (4,1).. more signs toward the actuator failing?
 
Closing the loop here for everyone and for those that find this thread in future searches. My CDL actuator was toasted out, replaced the actuator and everything is working like normal.
 
Closing the loop here for everyone and for those that find this thread in future searches. My CDL actuator was toasted out, replaced the actuator and everything is working like normal.
Darn... i'm sorry I just saw this thread. I had the EXACT same thing happen to me several months ago. Tried everything that was mentioned in this thread and it still would not turn off. I ended up taking out the actuator from the transfer case and dissembled it to inspect for any broken parts. Cleaned it up and re-installed and it's been working flawlessly ever since.

I would try removing the CDL actuator first. This involves dropping the transmission 2" or so and then reaching up and unbolting the actuator. If it's still locked after that... then you might indeed be seized. They rarely fail and so I'd be okay picking up one from the junkyard for $800.

Actually, you don't need to drop the transmission subframe. It helps, but you can feel all the bolts the same way you would with the extra 2" of room.
 
@RuskiE39 It was a very long time ago when I did the job and I can’t remember if it was my 80 or 100…. But I believe you.
 
@RuskiE39 It was a very long time ago when I did the job and I can’t remember if it was my 80 or 100…. But I believe you.
Doesn't hurt if you have big hands. Only takes a few minutes to loosen the bolts and get a floor jack underneath.
 

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