Thinking of a 99, got some questions.

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Pskhaat

Pskhaat

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1999 UZJ100 w/ diff lock & rear AC:

1. Rear diff lock light blinks for a long time (as I wait) when I turn the switch whilst the tranny in N, but when going forward will turn solid. I know it takes some time to engage, but how long?

2. See #1, center diff light blinks for 2-3 seconds then turns solid. I thought it was the same mechanism as in the 80s?

3. What are better? the 16" or 18" wheels? I have 16s on my 40 & 80, are the 18s even desirable? I may have an opportunity to ask for a swap of wheels w/ another 100 series.

4. She drove pretty well. What are the main tech points at which I should be looking?

5. How easy is it to remove the factory roof rack?

:cheers:
 
Milage?

#1. I believe this is normal operation. I think the drivetrain has to have some movement for the locker to "set up".

#2. Same answer.

#3. 16"s for offroad use (more tire conformity to terrain and less chance of wheel damage) and wider (cheaper?) tire selection.
18" for better (sportier) on-road performance (less sidewall leaning). Tire selection not as broad but improving.

#4. Proof of good PM.
At 60k trans service,acessory belt and wheel bearing pack (no big deal).
At 90k you need a timing belt ($500-1000).
At 120k new spark plugs. + another 60k service
Do several starts to check for starter contact issues (sometimes an issue at 60-120k ) also look and see if the original battery is still in place (a new battery could indicate a misdiagnosed starter contact problem).
Ask the owner if the truck has ever gone into "safe mode" (ie. no response to throttle imput ect). This could indicate a TPS problem. ( Relatively cheap fix ~$300).
Look for signs of hard offroad use (possible in AZ). Brush scratches on finish, Sagebrush stuck in the radiator, Frame rail scapes, ARB stickers ect..
Check operation of CD changer if onboard.
Ask about tow use.
Check to make sure the spare (with original wheel and matching tire), jack and tire tools are still present.
Make sure the tires are the right size. Stock = 275/70R16 but 285/75r16 is not bad. This might not be a deal breaker but know if you'll have to buy new tires.
 
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agree with the above, the axle must move before it engages, at least this is the way 80s are, same in the 100 I think

and the roof rack is EASY to remove, 10-15 mins, 30 and 15 Torx heads

check for VIN stickers on each body(sheetmetal) part, if not there......its been in an acidentt

get a 100......you will love it :)
 
As previously stated, the e-locker will engage if you move slowly forward or backward. They do not engage as fast as say ARB does.

2-3 seconds for the center seems fine.

I prefer 16" wheels for off roading and tire selection. 18" would be better for a pavement pounder, I guess.

Main tech stuff to look for? How about you tell us the mileage so we can give you some help here;)
 
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Mileage=76k. Carfax says 2 owners; first was corporate lease, it's been in AZ it's whole life so that's good I guess. No immediate signs of metal-to-metal on the receiver hitch.

I have too many tires in my garage that are 16s anyway, but curious if the 18s would have any tire options at all (and alas, it appears no). The 16s however are...gulp...chrome. They're OEM, but they're chrome OEM, and that would be somewhat embarrassing :)

It's the $ though that's killing me, the truck's right in there cost wise, just I told myself so long ago I wouldn't take on that $ outlay again, and tough to jump into it with fuel prices as high as they are too. Plus it'd replace my Ford commuter that gets 35mpg :O
 
3fj40 said:
1999 UZJ100 w/ diff lock & rear AC:

1. Rear diff lock light blinks for a long time (as I wait) when I turn the switch whilst the tranny in N, but when going forward will turn solid. I know it takes some time to engage, but how long?
You need, when engaging either the factory rr e-locker and/or the CDL to engage when moving forward or reverse under 5mph. Somtimes mine clicks in almost instantly and other times it takes several (up to 5) seconds.

2. See #1, center diff light blinks for 2-3 seconds then turns solid. I thought it was the same mechanism as in the 80s?
See above.

3. What are better? the 16" or 18" wheels? I have 16s on my 40 & 80, are the 18s even desirable? I may have an opportunity to ask for a swap of wheels w/ another 100 series.
16" for off-road.

4. She drove pretty well. What are the main tech points at which I should be looking?
Check for evidence of it being an East Coast vehicle (avoid at ALL costs if it turns out to have been from the East Coast). Carfax, etc.

5. How easy is it to remove the factory roof rack?
Don't know...still using my factory roof rack.
:cheers:
Click to expand...

See each repsonse under each line item.
 
I just bought a 1999 here in SWUtah, spent its life in Gilbert AZ two owners clean car fax. 58K miles on it, paid $23K and now spending $1800 to do the following, plus I spent $620 for new AT/LT tires.

Install new timing belt, water pump, bearings and seal kit - All Toyota parts
Install new serpentine belt - Toyota part
Install all new hoses under hood - Toyota parts
Install new antifreeze - Toyota red antifreeze
Repack wheel bearings and check CV/boots
If front brake pads are worn more then 50% replace pads
Replace/flush brake fluid
Replace fluid in front and rear differentials - use synthetic fluid.
Replace fluid in transfer case - use synthetic fluid.
Service transmission - drop pan, clean pan and mesh filter add new fluid
Grease driveline and front suspension.

I will end up with a low mileage LC that was a Mall Cruiser and lived its life in a dry climate no rust and the right silver beige color for my location, and all maintance is current. Total cost $25,420
 
If you can afford a little jump in price, I would suggest you go for an 01. Why you ask? Well, in 01 the premium gas requirement was dropped, so you can run regular. Also, in 00 they went to the TRAC all wheel drive setup, which is simply awesome on my rig. I don't wheel mine, but I love the trac on the street.
 
Josh83 said:
If you can afford a little jump in price... Well, in 01 the premium gas requirement was dropped
Click to expand...

I can barely afford the 99 :crybaby: but the 01s are pretty far out of my range. Was there an ECM change or programming difference in 01 causing better retarded firing or was compression lowered?
 
I don't know what changed, and as far as I have read, noone on this board knows either. If the 99 is what you can afford, you wont regret it. Any cared-for 100 is a great truck. Good luck with your decision. I can tell you this, if I HAD to sell one of my trucks, it would be my 80, hands down. I love my 80, but my 100 is my favorite.
 
At 90k you are looking at timing belt replacement and water pump replacement. Do a search and see the range of $ people have spent.

Check the vehicle thoroughly for signs of an accident, leaks, etc. Standard stuff. If you have a trusted mechanic, arrange an inspection if needed.

AZ vehicle should be rust free so that is a very GOOD thing:)
 
calamaridog said:
AZ vehicle should be rust free so that is a very GOOD thing:)
Click to expand...

I looked at a 2002 LX470 last year that was a Minn. vehicle. The entire bottom was coroded and starting to show rust. All the aluminum conectors were also coroded. The LX spent two hard years in a damp area with roads that were coated with salt in the winter. Even as well as Toyota protects their vehicles I would stay away from a truck from the rust belt.
 
how much $$$ always an indicator?
 
Ditto that about avoiding rust belt cars. My 99 LC has had numerous electrical problems due to corrosion of connectors. Toyota is not the best at corrosion proofing these vehicles in my opinion. Even parts up on the top of the engine are corroded. Every damn screw and bolt. Doesn't help that they put the alternator down low where it gets a lot of snow and water splashed on it. The exterior of the vehicle looks like new though.
 
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