I did it!! Picking up my 62 tomorrow. Have ?? though. (1 Viewer)

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getto

getto

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I finally scrounged up the 1000.00 and am picking up my new 89 FJ62 tomorrow. :) Where do I go from here? It has 204k on it, runs, few dents, a little rust here and there.
1. It takes a few cranks before it starts and then needs a little gas before it comes up to idle. It did sit for a year with the gas tank off. Is this normal? I doubt it, but what should I look at first? I plan on replacing the plugs, etc.
2. What do you guys do when your chrome handles seize up/or don't go back down. I had this problem on my 60's and could never fix it.
3. What's up with the two cats? What kind of money am I looking at for replacement? Is there any way to bipass the need for the cats?
4. Got it up to about 60 MPH then hit a 25 degree hill and dropped about 20 MPH over a 1/4 mile. Is this normal, to lose power like this? What can I do/ look at to try to remedy this?
5. What is the purpose of the throttle? Is it similar to the choke on a 60?
6. There is a leak of somesort at the rear brake drum. What is this?

Thanks and I am sure I will have more questions as I get to know this LC better. It is a lot different than a 60.
Getto
 
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Congratulations. You have a sweet rig and you're going to love it. First of all, you need to join the 3FE list and peruse the accumulated knowledge on the 3FE website. Go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/3FE/, go to the files section, read the introductory welcome message, then start reading all of the stuff in the fixes/lessons learned folder. Send a message to the list introducing yourself and feel free to ask lots of questions - we are very friendly there. Search the 3FE archives at http://www.birfield.com/archives/ for specific questions.

You MUST buy a Toyota Factory Service Manual. Get the 1989 or 1990 Land Cruiser manual. About $67 plus shipping directly from Toyota Publications, 800-622-2033. The best spent $70 you will ever spend on your Cruiser. Other manuals (Haynes, Chiltons, etc) are crap in comparison.

Some answers to your questions.

1.If the tank was off, the fuel pump was probably replaced. the most common reason for pump failure is fuel pressure regulator failure. You need to do a general tune up - change all the fluids (oil, coolant, ATF, transfer oil, diff oil, replace plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor, air filter, oil filter, adjust timing, adjust valves, run some injector cleaner, then re-evaluate. Strongly consider replacing the FPR and removing and cleaning out the intake plenum and throttle body.

2. don't know - clean and lube I guess.

3. search the archives here and on the 3FE list about the consensus exhaust upgrade plan, basically: custom wtih single cat, 2.25 - 2.5" pipe, cheap muffler, straight back, all tucked up high. Avoid Midas/Meineke/etc.

4. Normal. Do the stuff in #1 first.

5. it's a hand throttle for use with a PTO - it's the appendix of the US spec FJ62, appicable only to non-US trucks that had PTO's

6. Leak at brake drum = brake cylinder or brake line leak. Find the leak and replace it now. This is a safety issue.
 
I've got to concur with Yooper on all of the above.

As far as cat replacement, you've got a lot of other stuff you need to worry about first. Tune it up and clean it up first. When you do the tune up, get the good stuff for it. OEM when you can, good plugs and wires, Napa Gold oil filter, Delo 400 oil works great in my truck...

On the leaking drum thing, check the brakes, but also check the inside of the wheels for a buildup of grime and grease. The leak could be an axle seal - more than likely a brake line, but it never hurts to check.

Most of all, take it slow. There is a learning curve with these trucks. You can't really just jump in and drive them like a regular car, in my experience. You have to listen to them and figure out how to drive them, how to manage them. It's like they have their own personalities or soemthing.

Congrats!
 
what he said to a T... also, get all the appropriate Amsoil fluids to replace everyting you have... oil, tranny, diffs and so on...

yooper, that should be the official i just got my 62 now what do i do reply...
 
I have always heard that if you are going to replace one rear wheel brake cylinder that you should always change both. I don't think you will be bogging down up the hills and everything should improve with a tune-up. Also try putting some Stabil in the old tank. I have noticed pretty dramatic improvements on cars and trucks that have sat for awhile with that stuff. I am in the same boat as you are, only a couple of months ahead of you. My advice would be to sit down and prioritize your trucks needs and do one thing at a time. I think it is wise to drive the truck as you go so you can get a feel for what her needs are. Just start with the brakes and have fun.
P.S. I don't trust myself enough with brakes to do them myself, did it once and had trouble down the road so I would take it to a competent brake guy for that. Every thing else I would give a whack at. Feel free to ask questions, someone always has the right answer. Good Luck!
 
once you get the truck running and stopping well make sure you go ahead and stop the rust.
 
The brakes are spongy, but when I pump them once they work great. I am assuming this has to do with the fluid around the rear drum. If this is the case, is it an easy and inexpensive fix? I plan to replace the brake lines anyway, and the brakes are relatively new.
Also, I have noticed that when I turn, either way, there is a knocking noise in the front end. Possible problems?
I know these are stupid questions, but the 62 makes me a little more nervous than my 60's did, because there is more stuff.
Thanks for the help so far!
Getto
 
Do a brake fluid flush and bleed first thing - if the brakes were serviced recently there might just be air in the lines, causing your sponginess. Don't forget to bleed the LSPV, in the center of the underside of the truck.

The knocking in the front end could be bad or not. Is it a repetitive clicking when cornering? This suggests a bad birfield joint - time for a front axle rebuild, which you probably need anyway. How do the knuckles look?

A single knock as you go around a corner could be loose springs - torque the U-bolts.

A knock as you turn the steering wheel could be loose steering parts, like tie rod ends or drag link joints. Check this out by having someone turn the wheel back and forth while parked while you watch the linkage move - it should all move smoothly.

All of this stuff is the same as a 60.
 
Kind of a knock-knock. Wouldn't say it's repetitive. The truck sat for a year, so the brake work is at least that old. I have a feeling it has something to do with the leak at the rear drum. Thanks so far for the info!
 
Congrats...

Congrats on the 62... :cool:

Just curious, where in WV are you???

I'm heading to Webster Co this Friday...I'll be taking my FZJ80 on its first trip to the mtns...I need to get a loan for gas $$$. :doh:

:)

Andy
 
Hey Andy,
I am in Morgantown, just across the Maryland border on 68.
Getto
 
getto said:
4. Got it up to about 60 MPH then hit a 25 degree hill and dropped about 20 MPH over a 1/4 mile. Is this normal, to lose power like this? What can I do/ look at to try to remedy this?
Click to expand...

My rusty junk can power up hills, so yours should too. If you're saying that you were squashing the mushroom and it was still dying up the hill, then no that's not right. At the very least, the tranny should have gone to a lower gear before that happened, so probably your kickdown cable need some tuning. Do everything that Yooper said, but also look into adjusting both your accelerator and kickdown cables. The 3FE list can give plenty of help for all of these things, but get the FSM too.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill- I was wondering if it was those cables. I will give it a look. Hopefully not too much trouble. It eventually shifts, but not right away like I thought it would, and then not for very long.
Getto
 
Definitely adjust and lube those cables. Also, for the start up idling issue....give the throttle body a good cleaning. Other than that, I think it's all been covered nicely above.
 
just bought a 1989 fj62

well i just got a 89 fj62 but its giving me problems getting it to run good. its was sitting for three months before i bought it.
1. i replaced oils, plugs and wires, and fuel filter.
2. now im having trouble running over 45 mph, and it start to struggle and it will idel down.
what advise can anyone give me thnx. JokeR
 
joker322 said:
well i just got a 89 fj62 but its giving me problems getting it to run good. its was sitting for three months before i bought it.
1. i replaced oils, plugs and wires, and fuel filter.
2. now im having trouble running over 45 mph, and it start to struggle and it will idel down.
what advise can anyone give me thnx. JokeR
Click to expand...
Please get a factory service manual. Inside that manual it will tell you how to pull for codes. You do not need a computer to do this. Meanwhile be looking at all the engine wiring and vaccum lines.
 
Amen. First things first...go get an FSM.
Fix the rear breaks...sounds like a simple/cheap jobber there.
Change all the fluids.
New plugs, wires, air filter, cap and rotor.
Stabil in the gas tank, and FRESH FUEL with fuel filter.
Adjust all linkages, and clean old grease...replace with new.
The clicking may very well be a bad Birfield. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters can get you a fresh start on rebuilding your front axle for a great price, and the FSM will give you almost everything except the tools for the work! Besides, you've got MUD on your side!
The 3FE is not a racecar motor, bu rather a tractor motor. Take care of it, and it'll last forever. Oh, and no need for synthetics. These motors were meant to run on crude from the field!
Good luck, and post up your new pony!
 
Stop the Rust

I bought an fj62 in May of this year. My pre-buy inspection only showed one rust spot just below the back window in the lift gate. Well, any 20 year old vehicle is going to have some rust. The short of my long story is I found more rust on the INSIDE under the carpets on the drivers side, and under the big black plastic plug on the passenger side foot board. I couldn't figure out where the water was coming from, and so (after reading a post on this forum) I dug all the seam sealer out of the rain gutters and replaced it. STILL LEAKED! Finally, I wound up taking both front fenders off and resealing all the seams below the corners of the windshield, including the vertical seam that goes all the way down just in front of the doors. I took off the downspouts that are located underneath the fenders and cleaned out all the leaves and dirt that were packed in around the cabin air intake on the passengers side. I also took out the windshield wiper motor panel and the plastic inspection panels to ensure all the junk was cleaned out and to be able to reseal the seams around the cabin air in-take. The cabin air intake was the source of the water that had caused all the rust under the big plastic plug on the front passenger foot board. I treated all the rust spots with some stuff called RUST MORT that kills rust. Then I primed it and sprayed on rubberized undercoat.

So, my advice is to inspect under the carpets and in every nook and cranny and stop the rust before you spend a bundle on mechanical repairs and upgrades.
 
Make sure your "oil galley plug" has been fixed. This is a must if you plan on not blowing the engine.
 
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