Project squat to pee continued (1 Viewer)

bustanutley · Feb 28, 2005

Busta's Build

So I headed down to treeroot's house this weekend to pull my truck apart and start with my major overhaul.

here is a before pic

and here is the start

I was a little over zealous with the shackle angle. it sits at about 42 deg when he springs are flat. Do you think it will be ok? It is really soft right now but I think I will add at least one leaf

Specs:

SOA
FJ-60 axles equipped with longs and marlin arms
XJ rear springs
stock 40 springs up front, out boarded 1.25"
As of how it sits now 104" WB will push the rear forward 1.5" on the perch to try to reuse my front DS for the rear

I was getting ready to cut the holes in my frame for my rear mounts and realize there isn't enough room between my header for that to happen, there is about an inch, I figure a bushing will just get melted real quick like.

Any thoughts?

I think I might make a rod that has a place for a bushing on one side and then hard mount the through bolt to the frame. I think if I do this and make sure the bolt doesn’t' rotate by using a threaded washer or maybe put a tack weld on the bolt it should wallow out the frame.

I could go under the frame but, the xj spring are maybe 4" lift as they are now and I would like to try and match the front. I do need to add a leaf to those XJ springs though

Another question:

People who are running marlin arms and Saginaw, what pitmit arms are you running? Marlin told me that on some pitmit arms the fj80 ends will fit; apparently they are the same taper. Maybe an old 3/4 Chevy? will they fit on my box I would hate to get one pulled and have the end side ok and not the box side?

(I'm not sure if I belong in the hardcore corner but I though this corner was for builds. move the thread if I"m wronge for guessing where to put it)

woody · Mar 1, 2005

spring over, 60's axles, waggies....works for me!

IMO, that rear shackle angle will work fine, just make sure you have one hell of a wrap bar in there....

hhhhmmm...I wonder how "pocketing" the frame for the front shackles would work...effectively notched it where the shackle sits and allow the inside of the shackle to kinda run thru the center of the frame....

only other option is below the frame, guess that depends on how level the truck will sit with that added inch of height.

FLYINGLOW · Mar 1, 2005

Your shackle angle looks kind of steep in the rear. If it stays how it is it will be perfect, but when I swapped in my 45 springs they settled out the first time I drove it. Drive it, but don't be too surprised if ya have to move em. The extra leaf might make it perfect though.

Ya, traction bar for longer springs...... don't get me started, and I'm SUA! :doh:

You will love the way it climbs. Go find some hills when your done.

Medusa · Mar 1, 2005

I think you need to cut off your front spring hangers and start over -- those look downright scarey. You should lengthen the frame rails by at least 1.5" so that the entire length of the spring hanger is welded to the frame. Because you need to outboard the springs you should either 1) build a new pair of spring hangers specifically designed to accomodate the outboarding or 2) if you insist on using the OEM spring hangers, you need to widen the frame rails at the point that they attach to the hangers.

As Woody notes, at the rear of the front spring you either have to notch the frame or mount the shackle hanger below the frame and outboarded.

bustanutley · Mar 1, 2005

Yeah, I was going to build a wrap bar before I built a front drive shaft to make sure I don’t' go wheeling beforehand. I have given thought to pocketing the frame but that is quite a task and I'm not sure about taking a huge notch out of the frame at that point, the stresses seem like they may be enormous.

Anyone know about the pitmit arm? I need to order that drag link like today so can get this thing driving.

medusa, my new front bumper is 4 by 2 box that is going to span the front frame rails and be welded between the two. The hangers will be sitting on it an inch. I haven’t burned those all the way in, nor have I added the gussets to them. They will be beefed up I assure you.

woody · Mar 1, 2005

good catch Jack on the front hangers....

I made new custom hangers for mine from 1/4" thick 3"x3" angle iron....cut/welded to create the right width, and welded to the frame. Much thicker/stronger than stock, and mine are still beat to hell. With the outboarding, you'll want to double-gusset to the frame...I see the frame plate on the outside, between that and the boxed front rails you should be solid enuf.

no clue on the pitman offhand....I run a modified Waggie one with my Scout box....had to run a heim at the pitman to allow a little clearance for the springs, a tie rod end was way to phat.

Medusa · Mar 1, 2005

medusa, my new front bumper is 4 by 2 box that is going to span the front frame rails and be welded between the two. The hangers will be sitting on it an inch. I haven’t burned those all the way in, nor have I added the gussets to them. They will be beefed up I assure you.

OK, how about agreeing in the future to not post pictures of your unfinished work without at least acknowledgement that weaknesses will be addressed.

greencruiser · Mar 1, 2005

You should run a nearly flat pitman arm if you mount the drag link under the pitman arm

the hole for the rod end can be reamed out if necessary

I used a perfectly flat one with my 4x4 labs steering kit which uses the 1ton chevy ends and I had to get the pitman arm reamed out bigger with a #2 taper ream

with spring over and the powersteering in my drag link sits at a nice angle to eliminate the bumpsteer

Eskimo · Mar 1, 2005

You're fine with your shackle angle in the rear... in fact, it's probably damn near perfect. if the spring is totally flat, the shackle won't move back any more than it is right now...

72cruiser · Mar 1, 2005

Eskimo said:
You're fine with your shackle angle in the rear... in fact, it's probably damn near perfect. if the spring is totally flat, the shackle won't move back any more than it is right now...

good call...had to think about it for a second, ha ha

malphrus

bustanutley · Mar 1, 2005

Eskimo said:
You're fine with your shackle angle in the rear... in fact, it's probably damn near perfect. if the spring is totally flat, the shackle won't move back any more than it is right now...

Cool I'll run it and see how it is, worst case is I'll have to move those hangers.

bustanutley · Mar 8, 2005

More work completed this weekend. I got the front axle in; the caster is set at 4.5 to 5 deg. I got the Brake booster and master cylinder on the firewall; tolerances between the carb are maybe 1/8 inch. I replumbed the entire car to a 2 circuit system using lines off a mini truck on the fire wall. I have one or two connections that are leaking however, so if anyone has any advice on common mistakes with the double fairing tool chime me in. Otherwise I got my new bumper welded in and most the gussets on there, but I ran out of welding wire so I have a few more beads to run. The ass end of my truck sits 2 inches low and the rear springs are pissed. I think I’m going to cut the eyes off a main leaf and add it to the packs and maybe move my rear shackle hangers back an inch. When the truck is level the bumper sits at 26.5" on 35s.

I'm most likely going to box both sides of these mounts

Things left to do:

-Bleed brakes and make sure they are going to work ok.
-Make square tube front shaft.
-Pray that rear shaft is long enough otherwise get retubed.
-Make wrap bar
-Get to junk yard and get pitmit arm and see if I can ream it out.
-Buy and mount ford shock towers
-Figure out rear shocks
-Weld in metal tech front hoops
-Kick Treeroot in the nuts for buying another LV
Note it is the best one he has (bondo king)
-GO WHEELING

Anyone got any pics of a good rear shock setup? I can't figure out how to get a long enough shock under there, I don't want to go through the floor however.

My buddy gave me an RE heep link that has a jonny joint on it, I was planning on using it to make my wrap bar, do you guys think spring bushings on the other ends will work ok?

treerootCO · Mar 8, 2005

There was no bondo on the floorboard that you put your foot through. I do know that

OnTheSpot · Mar 9, 2005

bustanutley said:
My buddy gave me an RE heep link that has a jonny joint on it, I was planning on using it to make my wrap bar, do you guys think spring bushings on the other ends will work ok?

Should work fine with a jonny joint and bushings.

Also, are your rear springs flipped?

bustanutley · Mar 9, 2005

Yeah, rear springs are flipped, if I center the axle on the spring it sits at 104" but I pushed the axle forward 1.5" to accommodate my shaft; if I have to get it retubed I'll push it back again.

The spring are pissed so I’m going to add at least one leaf to them, maybe 2

haystax · Mar 9, 2005

My rear shock lower mounts are plates welded to the back of the spring perches that drop down and inwards and locate the shock about even with the bottom of the axle tube. The distance between pins with my sagged out rear springs is around 22" right now, might get a couple more inches with more spring lift but that is still a little shy of being able to run 14 or 15" travel shocks without inboarding the top mounts which limits how well the longer travel shocks work anyways.

Good luck -

Magoo · Mar 9, 2005

nice to see it on all 4's again.
the rear xj springs look reaallyyy tired.it amazes me that they actually invert when you put the weight on it.i had loaded an xj up with a 2f/4spd trans 3spd case,driveshafts,and various other parts and they did that but that was alot of weight.is a rear of a 40 really that heavy?
that thing is gonna flex like crazy in the rear.but it would be sweet if it sat level.im thinkin its gonna be a trial and error with the rear packs.im confident that you will get it right and life will be great.
lookin good.time to work out the bugs.i hate that part!!
shawn

FLYINGLOW · Mar 11, 2005

bustanutley said:
I got the Brake booster and master cylinder on the firewall; tolerances between the carb are maybe 1/8 inch.

Do you mean that you have 1/8" clearance between the carb and the booster? You will have contact when the engine torques in its mounts and when the body flexes.

bustanutley · Mar 11, 2005

It’s actually the air cleaner and the master cylinder, I think it will be ok. That is a good thought though, I hadn't thunk it :idea:

FLYINGLOW · Mar 12, 2005

bustanutley said:
It’s actually the air cleaner and the master cylinder, I think it will be ok. That is a good thought though, I hadn't thunk it

Air cleaner can be adjusted with a hammer.... Keep an eye on it when you start driving it though. I had my throttle pedal jam (at idle) against the intake manifold during good flexing. I got a bit of body lift but my pedal is also modified for the TBI cable.

Project squat to pee continued (1 Viewer)

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