Let's say my front diff goes out tomorrow...

Yeah, I've got a 99 with the 2-pinion style carrier in the front. Let's say she craps out tomorrow.

I have zero warranty on this vehicle so wouldn't it be the perfect time to go to an ARB in the front end? I'd do both diffs since I have the LSD in the rear currently.

Also, wouldn't the ARB solve the 2-pinion vs. 4-pinion issue that 98-99 models have?

Just loading up on ammo and attempting to justify an ARB for myself even more

Tad

I was thinking about the same fix. I am intrigued by the LOKKA lockers. However, apparently, no one stateside has had any experience with these particular lockers.

I thought the Lokka was the same as a Lockrite. I would not stick them in a 100. As for ARB solving the weak diff issue, yes that would do it.

There is no evidence the that 2 pinion is what causes the failiures. In a lot of cases, the ring gear or pinion breaks. Without knowing what part broke, one can not blame the pinion (spider) gears. Unless it is them that broke. Or it can be proven that it was the deflection of the case that caused it.

Another data point just discovered. 100 series E locker ring gear is the same size as an 80 in terms of OD, The gears are slightly wider, but both are 9.5" ring gears. Not interchangable, but same size. Housing, actuator and side bearings all seem to be the same.

sleeoffroad said:

I thought the Lokka was the same as a Lockrite. I would not stick them in a 100. As for ARB solving the weak diff issue, yes that would do it.

There is no evidence the that 2 pinion is what causes the failiures. In a lot of cases, the ring gear or pinion breaks. Without knowing what part broke, one can not blame the pinion (spider) gears. Unless it is them that broke. Or it can be proven that it was the deflection of the case that caused it.

Another data point just discovered. 100 series E locker ring gear is the same size as an 80 in terms of OD, The gears are slightly wider, but both are 9.5" ring gears. Not interchangable, but same size. Housing, actuator and side bearings all seem to be the same.

Click to expand...

In the older toyota minis, the V6's got a 4-pinion 7" front diff while the 4-cyl got the 2-pinion 7". Also, for the rear diffs, both have 8" ring gears, but the V6 ring gears are thicker. Also, the V6 pinion shaft is thicker. Some shops cheap-out and use a 4-cyl rear pinion in place of the V6 pinion and use shims to line up the R&P patterns. I'm not sure if the V6 rear diffs were 4 pinion and 4-cyl rear diffs 2-pinion, though. Either way, the only weakness I've heard of was in the ring cut pattern in the front diff, hence the newer Toyotas have reverse cut gears up front.

Since the older overseas 100's had 6-cyl engines, it wouldn't surprise me if Toyota makes a 4.56 R&P gearset for the 100s w/ 1FZ and auto.

I was more curious to see how one would get home if your front diff blows up? If you had manual hubs, you could unlock them, disconnect the front d-shaft, and lock the center diff. But w/o manual hubs, what can you do? I was thinkin one could pull off the front hubs/spindle, remove the front axles, then reinstall the spindles/hubs, but you'd have to pull the inner axle on the other side of the CV.

Remove the drive plates, then pull the driveshaft and lock the center diff.