Im takin the cruiser to get its new carpet if my Mazda sells today. Just wondering what you guys use to clean it up before you spray in liners. Just got to get it clean and surface rust free. Wire brush? Chem and rag kinda thing? THanks
Rhino lining (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter skyshark186
- Start date
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I did a do-it-yourself bedlining on mine and it required scuffing up all painted surfaces and prepping/cleaning it with acetone. Im not sure if Rhino-lining requires the same. You're gonna love it bedlined!
Mike
Mike
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2004
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- Location
- Emporia, KS
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- www.tornadoalleycruisers.org
Rhino will actually solvent clean, then sand, then solvent clean before the lining is applied (IIKMS).
Former cruiser owner in Emporia formerly owned the Rhino shop.
Former cruiser owner in Emporia formerly owned the Rhino shop.
- Thread starter
- #4
So you think just clean it as far as debris and send it to them huh? Thanks guys.
I'd check out Herculiner first. It's 95.00 gallon and you can do the inside and have some left over. Took me about an hour to clean the dirt and run a portable drill with 50 grit sandpaper. I then poured it in a spayer and went to town. Total of about 20 min to do the entire inside of cruiser and I put it on thick. Just be sure you tape off everything and other than that it is super easy. Let it set up for a day and your ready to go.
- Thread starter
- #7
I have seen some very bad results with do-it-at-home jobs. I dont trust myself to do it right and get in every nook and cranny. I do trust rhino lining to do that. I have also seen things scratch/rub right through cheaper liners, and Ive personally beat the holly hell out of a rhino lining and see it laugh at me.
2nd and more importantly. No compressor, no air tools, no spraying experience, and absolutely no patience on things like this. I will pay to have it done right once rather than do it myself twice.
That and they will be doing the floor clear up to the firewall, lower half of both doors, tailgate(or barn doors if a certain someone would email me)and so i dont have to do a headliner the underside of my fiberglass top.
2nd and more importantly. No compressor, no air tools, no spraying experience, and absolutely no patience on things like this. I will pay to have it done right once rather than do it myself twice.
That and they will be doing the floor clear up to the firewall, lower half of both doors, tailgate(or barn doors if a certain someone would email me)and so i dont have to do a headliner the underside of my fiberglass top.
The right way to line a tub
I lined my tub last year. To do it right, take out the entire interior including seats, gas tank, steering column, heater, rollbar, tranny hump, kick vents, rear side marker lights, everything. Disconnect and hang all wires/cables. I used a combination of several types of sanders bought at Home depot. I used a random orbital, a mouse, and a particle impregnated round brush on a drill. Wear goggles. Sand the whole tub. The hardest part is the corners under the kick vents, esp. on drivers side. You may have to hand sand some. Prep all the way up the firewall (if you want that lined; I did). I used 80 and 60 grit. The liner sticks better if the surface is rough.
I wanted to line up and over the rales and over the door sill. Therefore I taped off lines about 1 cm "over the rails" (see pics). I then hand sanded above the tape. I also lined about 2 inches below the door sill for a lined "kick panel" area. I found that the blue (3M?) painters masking tape stuck best, is durable, and will not damage paint when removed. The brown stuff is too thin. I spent lots of time taping and sanding. I taped curves with many sequential small pieces of tape. I then made little plugs out of blue tape and put them in all the (one million) holes in the tub to keep them from being covered. A year later, I still have bad dreams about blue tape. You can also use Q tips.
I then come-alonged the 40 up on a trailer and hauled it to the liner dealer. I chose Arma Coat. It is sprayed on hot and at high pressure. They have to mask off your whole truck, including the dash, to spray this fine spray. Due to high heat application, it goes on with a finer grain than some. I think it looks more like a factory coating.
Then trailer the rig home and spent the next 8 months replacing your interior because you did not label parts. I also had all metal parts powder coated at this time, but that's another thread. I went to great pain to prep the rig right. I stressed to the dealer that I wanted nothing short of a perfect application since I prepped the tub myself. There is no way any dealer would spend the time to prep the tub like I did. Do the prep work yourself and cut a deal with the dealer.
I cannot comment on the long term durability of the Arma Coat yet; the 40 project is still unfinished (to be done by spring ... 2008). I can say that it took 100 times longer than I thought to do it right. I am very pleased with the factory appearing results.
Or you could just pull the carpet and slap some Durabak on the exposed areas, then drink a few beers. Hmmmmmm...... Opportunity Cost.
I lined my tub last year. To do it right, take out the entire interior including seats, gas tank, steering column, heater, rollbar, tranny hump, kick vents, rear side marker lights, everything. Disconnect and hang all wires/cables. I used a combination of several types of sanders bought at Home depot. I used a random orbital, a mouse, and a particle impregnated round brush on a drill. Wear goggles. Sand the whole tub. The hardest part is the corners under the kick vents, esp. on drivers side. You may have to hand sand some. Prep all the way up the firewall (if you want that lined; I did). I used 80 and 60 grit. The liner sticks better if the surface is rough.
I wanted to line up and over the rales and over the door sill. Therefore I taped off lines about 1 cm "over the rails" (see pics). I then hand sanded above the tape. I also lined about 2 inches below the door sill for a lined "kick panel" area. I found that the blue (3M?) painters masking tape stuck best, is durable, and will not damage paint when removed. The brown stuff is too thin. I spent lots of time taping and sanding. I taped curves with many sequential small pieces of tape. I then made little plugs out of blue tape and put them in all the (one million) holes in the tub to keep them from being covered. A year later, I still have bad dreams about blue tape. You can also use Q tips.
I then come-alonged the 40 up on a trailer and hauled it to the liner dealer. I chose Arma Coat. It is sprayed on hot and at high pressure. They have to mask off your whole truck, including the dash, to spray this fine spray. Due to high heat application, it goes on with a finer grain than some. I think it looks more like a factory coating.
Then trailer the rig home and spent the next 8 months replacing your interior because you did not label parts. I also had all metal parts powder coated at this time, but that's another thread. I went to great pain to prep the rig right. I stressed to the dealer that I wanted nothing short of a perfect application since I prepped the tub myself. There is no way any dealer would spend the time to prep the tub like I did. Do the prep work yourself and cut a deal with the dealer.
I cannot comment on the long term durability of the Arma Coat yet; the 40 project is still unfinished (to be done by spring ... 2008). I can say that it took 100 times longer than I thought to do it right. I am very pleased with the factory appearing results.
Or you could just pull the carpet and slap some Durabak on the exposed areas, then drink a few beers. Hmmmmmm...... Opportunity Cost.
Super slick there Doc.
Deep South Cruisers
1978 FJ40 ~ 283 V8
I brushed in the floor pans of my FJ45 with Herculiner and I like the texture and durability of the finished produt.
Remember, acetone might be fine for some liner products but Herculiner specs Xylene for the wipedown and thinning if you're going to spray it.
Remember, acetone might be fine for some liner products but Herculiner specs Xylene for the wipedown and thinning if you're going to spray it.
- Thread starter
- #11
We had Rhino do my buddies pickup bed. They did a great job with it. And we use that think HARD and it still holds on a looks great.
Your 40 looks great with all that work tho. I just dont have the time or the equipment to do it myself. I trust that they will do a good job, and if not i can be a big pain in the ass till they redo what they messed up. But im confident all that wont happen.
Thanks very much for the detailed responses.
Your 40 looks great with all that work tho. I just dont have the time or the equipment to do it myself. I trust that they will do a good job, and if not i can be a big pain in the ass till they redo what they messed up. But im confident all that wont happen.
Thanks very much for the detailed responses.
