I have a strange thing happening with my windows and locks. When my 62 is on and idle the windows and locks are very very slow and actually the back doors don't unlock most of the time. However when I'm driving or revving the engine, the locks and windows work fine, although trying to roll two or more windows at once is a little slower, but still much better than idle. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Thanks.
Reviving an old thread here, but after trying to lube the front and aft vertical guides for the windows, and not improving things much, I opened the door panels and lubed the horizontal track below the window. This is where a wheel at the end of the motor arm runs back and forth to raise and lower the window, and it was pretty dry. Tried also lubing the gear teeth on the armature, but a little difficult to access.
I think the windows are working a little better, but still not real quick. Fortunately the driver's window is the fastest of any of the four!
The wireing harness in the drivers door provides the 12v+ for the entire locks and windows system and, well the design pretty much sucks. A few weeks back I was repairing some rust and refreshed/rebuilt that harness while I was in there. The windows and locks now work MUCH better. It was a royal pain to get out and to reinstall but the improvments were worth it.
The wireing harness in the drivers door provides the 12v+ for the entire locks and windows system and, well the design pretty much sucks. A few weeks back I was repairing some rust and refreshed/rebuilt that harness while I was in there. The windows and locks now work MUCH better. It was a royal pain to get out and to reinstall but the improvments were worth it.
What all did you do to your harness? I was working on a basic "window booster" system that would feed full battery power to the window motors, but when I pulled one of my motors and switches out, I found out my design wouldn't work. Looks like the voltage to the motors is actually reversed between up and down, from what I could see. I had thought it was a three wire system when I designed the booster
Anything we can do to make our windows work faster is definately a valuable addition to the knowledge base here.
Pretty much I took it all apart and improved all of the mid harness factory splices. They are the ones wrapped in the wide blue electrical tape. Toyota seems to use a wierd black coating on their wires that is very tough to solder and therefore uses little clamps to make the splices. These clamp connections are a serious weak point in our electrical systems. To fix them I took the harness out of the truck completely unwrapped it and replaced the clamps with solder conections. All I had to do was brush the coating off of the wires to make the solder stick.
The end result is all of the windows travel much faster and the power locks operate with much more force.
This is pretty much the same thing I did to my rear harness a few months back. I am at the point where I assume the harness is bad whenever I have any electrical issues.
Pretty much I took it all apart and improved all of the mid harness factory splices. They are the ones wrapped in the wide blue electrical tape. Toyota seems to use a wierd black coating on their wires that is very tough to solder and therefore uses little clamps to make the splices. These clamp connections are a serious weak point in our electrical systems. To fix them I took the harness out of the truck completely unwrapped it and replaced the clamps with solder conections. All I had to do was brush the coating off of the wires to make the solder stick.
The end result is all of the windows travel much faster and the power locks operate with much more force.
This is pretty much the same thing I did to my rear harness a few months back. I am at the point where I assume the harness is bad whenever I have any electrical issues.
So you pulled it out of all the doors to do this, or one at a time, or was it just the section of wiring in the driver's door that needed work? My locks are operating perfectly, but my windows are in sad shape. If they're wet or cold, they straight up just won't work, save for my driver's window.
But I'm now wondering if import silvia, Spook50 or anyone else has anything to add with respect to reworking the loom in the driver's door given the aftermarket alarm.
I should also preface the above by relaying that I spoke with the service manager at TLC and his answer was that the only thing that'd repair the functionality of the rear door locks is to pull the alarm entirely. This isn't really an option for me as the truck is for work and at any given time has thousands of dollars of photo gear in it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated--as always!
