I know if I bought a truck that would only pass emissions loaded with E85, I be pretty pissed. Maybe the buyer won't care but I think it'd be pretty sleazy no to disclose that information when selling it. Personally, I doubt it'll pass the dyno test without a fully functional smog control system.
There is a box under the dash called the AC amplifier. It has has an input that reads engine speed from the tach I think. If the rpm is below the cutoff point, the AC won't come on. Try raising the idle a bit to see if the AC functions. If it does, you may be able to adjust the blue knob on...
Shackles with pins locked to the side plates work best. A plain bolt tightened down on the bushings doesn't make for a very stable shackle. Some of the $$ for a well made shackle is for a proper pin turned with a shoulder, threaded into the plate and locked with a nut. One that is drilled to...
x2 on the worn parts. If you have the chance to examine those parts from a disassembled tranny, the grooves on the inside of the ring and the outside of the gear should have square flat edges. If the corners are all rounded off, the torque of driving tends to push them apart and it pops out of...
It could also be a worn synchro ring in the tranny. If none of the above suggestions help, put some heavier oil in the tranny and don't downshift into second as much.
I'm puzzled as to why anyone feels the needs to remove the rad cap from a hot engine. Maybe its the ,"OMG I have to do something" syndrome that motivates people to do dumb things. As posted above, it'll likely do more damage to the engine than simply leaving it alone. It's definitely much...
The thing is somewhat adjustable and its proper setting is close to the belt but not in constant contact with it. When the belt flutters a bit it'll spin the roller sometimes. I thought it was an odd thing to bolt to the front of the motor. My guess is that it is there to protect the lower...
The thing making the noise is a smaller idler wheel that keeps the AC belt from slapping the lower radiator hose. Its easy to take it out to lube it. It has a sealed bearing that can be replaced or you can squirt a bit of oil into into it. The metal ring pressed onto the bearing is heavy...
60s and 62s have the front driveshaft ends lined up. 80s have the front driveshaft ends at 90 degrees to each other. Its a rare setup that appears to make no sense. Apparently its a "broken back" or "W" configuration that explains it. My guess is that as you lift an 80, there is a cross over...
Just drain and fill it. Once its 95% gear oil, 5% ATF won't hurt anything. You could do a second drain and fill after a 1000 miles if you really want to get "all" the ATF out.
Are you sure the secondary diaphram is functioning? I played with alternate jets and had worse perfomance and poor emissions until I went back to stock jets.
There is a plug in the back of the block towards the firewall. That one would be a bugger to replace with the engine in the truck. The oil cooler might be a weak spot to let coolant contaminate the oil. I'd test or isolate the cooler from the system.
Keep in mind that the adjustment of the preload bolt on the top of the box does not deal with a worn out steering gear very well. If you tighten it with the wheels pointed straight, it will likely bind with the wheels turned left or right. You won't feel the bind because of all the stuff...
The trick I learned from a guy who rebuilds brake boosters was to put a dab of grease on the end of the shaft and then put the master cylinder in place. Remove the master cyl and look at how much grease is left on the end of the shaft. If there is zero clearance when assembled, the grease gets...
Yea, I recognize those sliders. They are a lot like these:
In fact they are these :) What I want to know is, what happened to the truck that they used to be bolted to.