Ok digging into this further,
I do get a 12v signal between pins 1 and 4 when the doors are locked. Does anyone know if pins 2-3 are supposed to get the 12v to drive the door lock motor? Does anyone know where the wires go to next?
My rear drivers door hasn’t been working for some time (key fob or button), I finally pulled the door panel and replaced the motor - still dead.
Does anyone know which wires to test voltage on at the actuator? What should my next plan of attack be?
My original windhsield developed a crack stemming from upper middle edge, no rock strike evident. I know that windhsields are a touchy item on these beasts and I am going out of pocket on this. What's the best option here? indy shop? dealership? jukn yard? would love to upgrade to the quiter...
I too would have preferred a full size spare… and a complete tool kit for lowering said spare. Alas, certain things you discover after a used car purchase. Point taken, will limp her at low speeds and pick up some ko2s. On a semi related note, will a 275/70 ko2 fit in the spare location
Blew drivers rear tire going down a rough trail - spare is 30.5" in diameter, rest of the wheels are 32.6". All tires will be replaced so not worried about uneven wear but worried about ruining transmission etc. Would a 200 mile trip at 65mph cause permanent damage?
I'm sure this has been answered before but I'm in a pinch so need help:
If I replace my OEM 18" wheels (06 LC100) w/ tundra TRD wheels - will I be able to reuse the same lug nuts?
Can I transfer the TPMS from my OEM wheels to new wheels?
Noticed a slight coolant smell recently, some slight seepage and a little bit of crusted red coolant at the Tees. Does this mean the hoses need replacement as well or am I ok just replacing the tees? Mine is a relative baby - '06 with 105k miles
definitely a good option, i do use the cig lighter on occasion so would rather separate the two loads but will probably settle for the cig lighter if I cant fins something better
I am trying to add a 10a fused accessory that should be switched off when the ignition is off. From a wiring perspective I would rather tap something in the cabin (as opposed to engine bay) any idea which fuse to tap?
06 LC 100 with no AHC if it makes a difference
After throwing over $200 at various door seals to cure driver side B-pillar wind noise, I finally decided on a more methodical approach and started taping off various gaps. Despite looking perfectly good, it appears that the run channel on my driver door is the culprit. New run is in the mail -...
I've been battling with a lot of wind noise on the driver side and the problem continued even after i replaced the door seal and the door opening seal. Today i realized that the drivers door takes a lot more effort to close than the other doors and the door latch is effectively lifting the door...