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  1. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    I don't see how that gains you much for $800 bucks? The laminated tooling I designed for mine works REALLY well. Having the narrow bottom groove for sheetmetal is really nice. The swag setup really limits you on how short the flanges and bend offset can be. Beyond that, having the ability to...
  2. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    You are going to need a LOT of extra structure with that setup. That is basically just an upper and lower die set for $800.
  3. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    Not needed. The vertical height is buying you the most strength in that beam. The welding will just pull/bend it. I'd delete. I would up size the hardware used to hold the truss on also. I did 1/2 inch grade 8. If I do something stupid like max out the jacks using too narrow a bottom die width...
  4. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    I think a pin would be ok. What are the extra strap/material at the top of the upper die truss? Anything you can do to eliminate welding the better. That will prevent warping and keep the upper die straighter.
  5. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    Looking good. I would increase the length of the tubing for the upper die attachment. Make it as long as the main upper rib is tall. If you look close on mine you can see another set of the brass set screws. These help align the top die to the bottom as there is slop between the two tubes...
  6. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    Any progress with your model or building?
  7. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    No issues with alignment at all. I was able to dial in things pretty easy. For the bottom beam, overall height is generally your friend. My bottom structure is 2x4x1/4 box stacked on top of each other long ways to form an 8" tall x 2" wide beam. I just have some round discs for the ram bases...
  8. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    It would be better if the upper truss came off easily. Mine collapses by slacking the tension screw and pulling the top pin. . This is handy for bending things over the top of the truss, like a 3 bend box.
  9. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    The tensioning jack screw needs to be pretty thick in diameter to prevent it from bowing. 1/2 inch thread probably isn't large enough. Mine is like 3/4 threads I think.
  10. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    If you design you dies like mine, don't forget that you need a little room at the ends for the nuts that pinch things together with the all thread. This can change the overall width you need for the bed/truss.
  11. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    Also. Remember this is a press brake not a sheetmetal brake. The bend radius will typically be set by a combination of the upper die AND an air bending spring back component unless you are going to bottom the dies. You may not get super crisp bends in sheetmetal like material for better or worse.
  12. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    The beam for the bottom of the rams would be better/stronger if the 2nd piece of material was upright. All you need it is a small plate to keep the ram from tipping over.
  13. M

    Designing a Hydraulic Press Brake

    Hello. I'll get you some more pics and that video soon. Don't over think it. You don't really need any fancy guides. I added a few brass 1/4-20 set screws with lock nuts on both the sliding points and where the upper die pins onto the frame. This let's me take the slop out of the assembly...
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