Victory! not perfect but glad to finally lay down the finish coat. Will need to buff out a few runs, peel spots, and where I bumped it (tight quarters). Hood required much slower strokes and thicker coat to flow.
PPG reccommmends Acetone, works well for parts I can get too but inside the nozzle on gun (plastic gasket and spinning part where paint flows just before exiting the gun) is not reachable so requires a soak or running solution through gun I guess.
Got a 65 degree day tomorrow with little to no...
That is what the local body shop recommended.
It is a polyurethane paint. Thinner doesn’t touch it. Never heard of gun cleaner, and didn’t know I could use reducer. Please elaborate....
Ya I was pretty bummed, but this has basically happened at every step, at least it is completely fixable.
Sorry I didn’t see this sooner—I am using the sprayit package set from Amazon (80$ about)for LVLP, 3300 or 3500 I think. used the 2.0 nozzle for primer and 1.7 for first coats of Delfleet...
Most updates on this paint job are here:
Cement gray 80
But here is a rundown of progress for this thread with input/experience from this noob painter.
So the door jambs went Just about flawless and I was encouraged. When I went for the roof, tailgate, and hood I got orange peel and bad dust...
So I have made some progress in the prep department, and am getting close to paint. I am still unsure of whether or not to prime the whole thing, or just rattle can over the fender flare work. I have silver dollar sized bare metal in a few spots, and a couple of small patches of bondo (< 3"...
Ok, SW^^^ does not sell to the public, they gave me the number to Alliance Coatings down in El Cajon. They are a bit cheaper (and USA). Just talked to Brian (very helpful) and a gallon kit in Gloss is about $300, $240 for flat. This is a military grade aerospace paint, very durable, tested to...
Ya, I though of renting. I am also looking into LVLP to apply coatings. Actually doesnt sound too bad, HVLP gets all the praise but sounds like LVLP has its place too. Can get by with a MUCH more reasonable compressor. ref to link:" Inotherwords, LVLP Guns are amazingly professional, spray an...
well this has been fun but I made one crucial error in my planning: the compressor. This will bring the price up too much for me, I was misunderstood as far as the specs on this, the most important tool for the job. I am going to ask the body shop what they will charge to prime and paint it...
Thanks for the insight, I really appreciate it. That is a good description of my cruiser's duty as well; everything. Best I prime it too, who knows how the adhesion to the old paint will turn out. Priming it will also give me the opportunity to get familiar with the sprayer. Well, off to harbor...
wow, that video is a confidence killer. My body shop (that is working on Dad's 40 series--different project) told me I could sand existing paint with 320 and then spray direct over it...now I am second guessing everything. aye yay yay. short cuts never pan out so I guess im jumping in head...
I am just sanding by hand with a block. I do have a small compressor, but no sander for it. I have an orbital. I am hesitant to bust out a power sander on it because the flare lines are really a minor imperfection. If I start cutting away a lot of old paint or even primer all around the fenders...
Alright thanks that really helps. Ya, it is very noticeable by feel. I also looked into the 3m product for filling scratches so I may experiment with that to save time on sanding.
Doing some initial prepping for paint on the 80 series this last weekend. This is my first time doing body/paint work on a vehicle.
Wanted to get some guidance on removing/filling the small stuff, such as paint scratches, basically where the metal is fine, but there are imperfections. For...