In our warm climate if fully dries hard. I would use a step drill on the rust holes to cut away the rotten edges on the holes and then seal it up with Penetrol. I leave them open for better drainage but you can put a sized rubber grommet in there too
Don't forget the pilot bearing in case you forgot about it. Just had one seize up from standing only 9 months. Made no noise before it was driven to its parking spot for the refresh
It works fine, your pedal effort to step in the clutch is only marginally higher (product of the numerator of the larger later bore with the denominator being the smaller bore).
SSi
Good job! Since it's not a resto but rather a driven Cruiser, I drill out the rust hole to get rid of the worst rot, clean the metal as far as possible and liberally coat it with Penetrol.
Once the penetrol has soaked in I give it a few coats of primer an similarly colored rattle can...
For interest's sake, does this replacement OE drain cock (as Toyota describes it) not screw in -
I was lucky enough to be able to save my 64's one so did not need to test but seems easier than to fabricate one.
Very nice. Just be mindful, if I am seeing right that there is thread tape on the sender's threads going into the block, that the sender needs to ground to the block to function and as such, too much tape will hamper the function. Likely the reason why Toyota in the late models went with a...
The early Cruisers used the pictured screws instead of bolts, what the OP found is correct. M6 hardware is both wrong for '65 and won't work without drilling and fiddling with nuts