Brakes should have enough force to lock up. The best coefficient of friction occurs just before lock up. That’s why modern anti skid systems modulate between lockup and wheel spin. In the old days we were taught how to manually modulate the brakes. If the tire starts to skid let off the brake...
Fixed part of what the hit an run did. Side markers from City Racer and turn signal lense from Toyota.
Also changed the oil. Kinda sad the dealer doesn’t even carry the drain plug gasket anymore. I miss CruiserDan...
My son help me change the rear diff. It was a long time coming and we finally made the time. Pinion bearing was shot, did the rear wheel bearings as well
I was getting a squeal when running the AC despite relatively recent belts (from Napa know nothing)
I was beginning to wonder if the compressor was going despite the AC working great. I decided first to replace the belts with genuine Toyota, problem solved!
Drum brakes suck! On another note I did the brakes on a friends Prius a couple of weeks ago and it’s the exact same design scaled down. I guess when Toyota has a good idea in the 60s they stick with it.
I thought about that option too but at $122 (before Mud discount) remanufactured from the Toyota dealer. Arrives tomorrow with no shipping cost. At that price I have plenty of other projects...
Used her to get away and then.....first crank of the morning the starter slows down and then click, click.
A few more clicks and it starts cranking again. The rest of the weekend I only parked on a steep downhill but never another problem. Now I’m trying to decide between the Amazon starter and OEM