I figured I couldn't be the only person this has happened to. Thanks following up. I will take this as final confirmation. Like you, Paco, now everytime I get out, I triple check to make sure the button isn't stuck.
I'll attempt to address all questions/comments with my understanding of things.
>Comment: "that makes no sense"
The button engages ALL of the unlock actuators. There are 5. If I disconnect 2 of the actuators (so there's now 3 instead of 5), it makes perfect sense to me that when I replicate...
If I push it down on the bottom edge of the button and hold it in place for a second, it will not spring back and hence that is when it is sticking. I have never known it to stick before now.
I don't see a fuse in the box for the lock or windows. There is probably a window fuse/breaker...
Confirmed. It is the door lock button sticking. If I hold it down I can force it to stick. I have replicated the problem and observed the 16amp draw.
I tried to upload a video of the ammeter before and after, but apparently I can't attach mp4 to the thread. Below is a link where I've...
It seems like a lot, but there are 5 doors/actuators (rear hatch also gets actuated) that create a quick punch to lock or unlock. Perhaps similar to the windshield wipers which have a 20A fuse. The breaker for the door locks is 14A - I'm not sure if that one is for all 5 or if they are split...
Well, it started raining, so I have to wait till it lets up....
BUT I have a strong hunch I know what it is. One would think big things like glow, starter, alternator, etc. But no. I believe and will test after the rain stops ...it is the friggin DOOR LOCK BUTTON. I believe it must have...
I found the starter relay and disconnected both plugs. No change.
Will go try svsisu's other recommendations.
In the mean time, I have discovered if I disconnect the breaker that the green arrow in the picture points to, the current drain disappears. Any idea what this is? It has a heavy-ish...
GLOW...
Attached 2 pics of what I believe to be the 2 glow screen relays. I disconnected one of the heavy wires on each of the relays (marked in green). Part number for these is 28610-57090 which google shows is RELAY ASSY, GLOW.
I disconnected these and there was no change - I still have the...
I have disconnected the alternator charging wire, the alternator plug, and the external regulator. No change.
I have disconnected the main glow screen wires just because I know these are capable of high currents. No change.
Still pulling 13-16Amps
I wonder if there are connections I can remove to test this theory? If I remove all wires connected to alternator would this eliminate the current, if the diode is the cause?
This is my daily driver. No warnings prior to this. Previous day the factory gauge was reading 26-27 volts like always.
I went to start my HJ61 and it was DEAD. No click, no lights, nothing. No lights are switches left on, door light was not on.
Battery#1 - 2.5Volts. Battery #2 - 7Volts...
Thanks 60 40. Mine is like those pics posted by @81fj40 and the inner tab is too mangled to re-use. Anyone have a suggestion where I can find one? Marks Offroad site says minimum $100 purchase and the only other one I see is in Australia.
I have a '78 FJ40 / 2F and I'm having the same question. My tab like the bent one in your pic is a bit mangled. Trying to determine if I need a new one and if I can get one.
I've got an oily slimy mess from front to back on the lower half. Was planning to replace timing cover gasket and oil pan gasket, but now that I've torn into it and started cleaning things up a bit, I see there's a mess of oil that appears to be coming from either the timing plate or the front...
The good folks at torfab fixed our window quickly and got us back on our journey! Thanks so much torfab!
Problem is, after walking around the shop I suddenly have a whole new wish list. :)
Thank you all for your quick responses. Sounds like Tor can help us out tomorrow. What a fantastic Land cruiser community you guys have here in the northwest!