Last thought about a removal attempt - I do have a buddy whose family owns a company that does sand and other types of abrasive blasting. Is this even worth considering? The guy in this thread’s truck was rusty and didn’t have a rubber coating. I’d be doing it just to remove the coat so I could...
I think I’ve got a game plan guys. Thanks. I’ll reat it myself with something legit, most likely fluid film, keep it from getting exposed to any of the winter nastiness, and monitor this junk coating to make sure I’m removing what’s failing and keeping those areas treated.
This is a pretty...
Thanks for this. I definitely care and that’s making me even more mad at myself for not recognizing this as a bad idea before having it done. So you think I should fluid film everything and as the rubberized stuff starts to crack, just keep proactively chipping that off and rewash/fluid film...
This is definitely the way I should have gone about it, sounds like you’ve got the right system if it’s working in Minnesota. One of my concerns is that if I do that now on TOP of this coating, will there still be an issue down the line of it failing (because you’re supposed to maintain them...
After everyone’s input I’m thinking I can
A. try to remove the coat (and probably apply something oil-based) - I’d want to do this in a perfect world but I suspect it’ll be easier said than done and I’m afraid of doing more harm than good
B. Do something oil-based on top of the coat
C. Just...
I didn’t do this thank goodness. I heard them talk about drilling holes and wasn’t ok with it. I should have kept that thought process for the undercoat too.
I saw that video and a couple others which prompted my regret and fear and my post. Unfortunately it’s already been done so I’m looking for advice for how to best prevent the outcome in the video. It makes it seem like even if I avoid salt I’m sunk.
Thanks a lot for the input guys. A little encouragement goes a long way. My plan right now is definitely to simply avoid the salt by keeping it parked when things are salty like @Bludozer said. My fear is that when this coat starts to crack and moisture gets in that it’ll still cause and...
I bought my 95 a little over a year ago and it had spent its whole life in southern California before moving to Dallas for a couple years, where I bought it and drove it home to Southern Indiana. I specifically travelled far to get a rust free truck, and it is a truly 100% rust free SoCal truck...
I got some additional videos on the 40th in California on Craigslist. It does seem to fit the bill for my price range, where I can't expect too much perfection. When I consider shipping costs and some paint and interior refresh, I feel like the money may be better spent sprucing up my 95 that I...
With some more thought I agree this is my best bet. I have seen a few "good" deals on 40ths, but the same money could get my truck to be pretty cherry. I love it and having a 40th would only be for clout, so it probably isn't worth the effort and money to switch.
I am in southern Indiana and I’m on the hunt for a 40th Anniversary Edition 80. A little background: This would replace my 95 in Moonglow, which runs great and I love it, but it would be beaten out only by a 40th. When I was shopping before I got my 95, I just missed out on a sage 40th by...
Sounds simple enough. I think the idea of P1 red acting as a ground when HI is activated just freaked me out a little. I don't want to fry these switches since they aren't cheap. Thanks for the reassurance!
When HI is on and the pads both get 12V in parallel, any explanation for why the LO switch (P1 red in your diagram) acts as another ground? I'd be afraid of running current back into the switch. Apparently it works, and I'm excited to get this going, I am just looking to satisfy my curiosity...