You would think they should be able to weld some supports in place around that crack…. But maybe there are more structural issues than meets the eye in that photo…
While you are doing the front crank and oil pump, highly recommend going ahead and pull the exhaust manifolds and doing the oil cooler while you are in that far… also a great time to either rebuild or replace the PS pump if you haven’t done so already
Haha…. My virgin attempt at a HG replacement (as well as hoping to get rid of all the oil drips… I think every single gasket was leaking to some degree…)
I was leaning towards the Slee ( I have Slee rear swing out and short-bus bumpers) but I really didn’t want to weld on brackets, so went with the WKOR sliders and really happy with them. I have 4Plus front and rear bumpers on my 40. All 3 companies make quality products.
Well I got the beast pulled and no indications of a head gasket leak on any of the cylinders so very happy about that (the plan was for this to to be a preventive replacement as there was no history provided that it had ever been replaced by any of the PO’s)
No vurgin aluminum here…. But some...
Decided to bite the bullet and go after the head gasket so hopefully that will give peace of mind for SAS. First time I’ve tackled a HG, so I’m sure it will be a slow process. Thought I made pretty good progress in 3hrs with the upper intake plenum unbolted and ready to come off after I get...
I just installed the same on mine (although I gave it a quick coat of Eastman black radiator paint prior to installation)... easy installation with a few rivnuts. I like how you added the protection where the hoses go thru the frame. I should probably do that as well for peace of mind.
and a nice view of the PHH in the 1st photo for those wanting to know the location.... (I'm currently in the process of tackling that project right now... unfortunately for me, my engine is not on an engine stand.)
trial and error would work equally as well for those that are mathematically challenged.
IMO… probably the best $115 you can spend if you have put larger wheels/tires on your 80 (and apparently it also works on 70/75/100 series as well)
Finally installed the Lutz speed-o-meter calibration unit. Took about 15min do it including the test drive and 5 min trying to find my tube of RTV sealant.
17 “up” clicks and now she’s dead on accurate. 👍👍