All that is true. But part of it is given the 80's rotors are truly massive, they don't tend to heat up very much unless you're pushing it far too hard. The 100 series pads can help some in this area, and is a good upgrade if you're doing anything that might cause brake fade. They're in the...
Nope.
I even said if you're replacing old and worn components, you'll see an improvement, even with crappy/cheap aftermarket parts. Those crappy/cheap parts won't function as well as new OEM (or equivalent parts).
My point is, if your braking system is maintained (in other words not old...
It's simple. If your brakes can lock up the tires (assuming ABS is disabled), then "improving" your brakes won't improve your braking performance. And you can easily lock up tires on dry pavement in an 80 if your brakes are even in halfway decent condition, I've done it more than once...
Okay, done a bunch of research on this.
There's a group of firefighters (coworkers of my dad) who go every year around the middle of May. They go out further, around Plush. I got hooked up with the spots they shoot at, so if we want to go out further that's an option.
There's also a friend...
A tongue that has been rolled around on the beach in the waves, then someone with a really bad cold hawked snot all over it.
You gotta try it at least once. :lol:
About 100 miles each way.
You should have taken it to several shops BEFORE you accepted the check. Shops will estimate for free, so there's zero cost to you (other than getting it towed). In the long run, it likely would have netted you far more money.
I would not cash the check until you get everything worked out...
That's a Suburban, not an 80. Suburban's are known for terrible braking performance (among other terrible things).
A stock 80 will stop in just as short a distance as vehicles half it's weight.
You will increase braking performance with performance rotors or pads on a vehicle like a...
Mixing incompatible coolants will cause them to turn to a very thick sludge, that can completely block coolant passages, block the heater core, etc.
More than a few posts about it here on Mud, and lots of posts/pages if you search the web.
Park and ride in with someone. I should have room in my truck, depending on how many you're bringing with you. No gas cost for you either.
Heck, I'll even let you drive my truck across the creek if you want some excitement.
I wanna say the creek is the South Russian?
I understand, but some surface rust (which will be very minor, if any) is far better than mixing two different types of coolant and plugging up coolant passages with sludge.
A little surface rust won't affect anything. Coolant not flowing will.
Quite a few people drain coolant, fill with H20, run for a day (or less), then drain and refill.
That's the ideal way to switch incompatible coolant types, or so I've been told.
You might still get it in time. I should get it hopefully tomorrow, so assuming everything checks out Gary will probably start building them next week.
Yes, you will need four 1157 bulbs. You will need to look at your local codes to see what's legal and not as far as white vs yellow goes...
You need to measure how thick they are. The FSM has the spec on the minimum amount.
If it's close to minimum, replace. I used Brembo rotors in the front of the :princess: truck, they're pretty close to OEM quality. Other rotors I've seen are uber cheap (way lighter).
Grooves I wouldn't...
Without pics, it's impossible to say for sure, but I'm guessing there is way more damage than $2800. I'm guessing in the $6k+ range. The outer rocker will need to be cut out, then the inner rocker, then everything welded back together.
I have no idea where you are located, but your 80 is...