FWIW, the Ironman rep did tell me that the 4” 80 series landcruiser shock has an internal bump stop built into it as well. That, plus I’m running timbrens in the rear. So my bottom outs are pretty cushy back there (if I do). Mostly on whoops
I think I understand what you’re saying. Yes the bushing that goes between mounting surface to mounting surface will compress when tightening down but it’s also designed to that way.
I also guess I can understand the fox argument as it’s a non compressible surface. Still, I’d rather adjust...
Good point, and why it’s important to know the same brands 100 series shock lengths vs same brands 80 series shock lengths. (100 series designed shock would be your safe callapsed length) Once you figure that out then draw your conclusions on collapsed and extended length differences from there...
So if you wanna space down your bumpstops, run the 6” shock. That 30 mm would be about 1.15” space down needed. My 35s rubbed the inner fender wells on the back with stock sized bumps and spacing them down helped eliminate this.
Which is why I ultimately ran the 4” shock with the axle side...
Yea. I believe these were the exact ones I used. It is a great deal vs slee. I have a 2005. I believe 1998/1999 models have different rear brake lines. (Just FYI)
As far as install, I think it was fairly straight forward. I do not think I really had to modify anything, but I did bend the axle...
One thing to consider, you can have all the downtravel you can muster, but it will be useless if your springs are not applying down pressure. (Hanging free)
The 4mm difference is less than 1/4”. it would basically be 1/4” more droop than I currently have with the 4” shocks and 2” chop. Just something to consider when you’re adjusting your bump stop height.
I wouldn’t think it would cause any issues with the abs lines.
Yes this is correct math if your shock mount relocate and/or ahc spacers are 2”. I am unsure the exact differences between the 4” shock travel and the 6” shock travel. I would get the exact measurements and do the math. 50mm is 2”. Just to make sure it’s not a 56mm difference or something.
You...
Interesting, I did not know that the OEM style sway bar was a torsion style sway bar. I’ll need to do some more research into that to get a better understanding of how it is/how it works.
Well, since we are talking about a 100 series with only a live rear axle, the body rolls much less. It’s...
One issue I ran into with the sway bar, was it contacted the rear shock body on droop and limited down travel. No good.
This may have been due to the size of the IMFCP shock body. With Alex’s tough Dog suspension, I don’t think he encountered this.
My buddy did the cutting and welding of the shock mount relocation on mine (no photos) and these are the photos of his truck. He did his first, and I liked the idea so we also did it on mine with the longer shocks.
And here are some close ups. I believe he ran a sway bar for awhile afterwards...
Interesting. I disagree. Also, that appears to be an anti rock bar. That’s actually a torsion bar actuated sway bar, very different than our OEM set up. But the data still proves more droop without a sway bar vs even with a sway bar.
Least drop: sway bar
More droop: anti rock
Most droop: no sway
🍻
FWIW, I ran IMFCP rear shocks because I already had them in the front and they are good for the price point. I didn’t want to mess up some really nice kings or something.
Now that I’ve had it dialed in for a couple years of hard wheeling, I’ll be putting some custom kings on the back, with...
Seems like alot of people are starting to play around. With my set up I def needed the spring retainers. Been running it this way for 2 years. Attempted to run without them, and the spring was loose.
I also had extended sway bar end links from TT, they warped and bent. So I removed the whole...
Ty. I hope it helps people.
In my opinion, the rear is where the magic is at for our trucks. Nothing to be had in the front end.
Also, I didn’t have to adjust my e brake cable or my abs lines. I may need to adjust my e brake cable but it seems alright for now.
Ah yea, I also used some extended brake lines for a FJ cruiser from trail gear. I’m unsure when Toyota changed the brake lines on the model year, but the earlier models are different than the later.
For the rear, raising the shock mount for me is 2 fold. 1) more clearance 2) more droop. I hardly ever hit the shock mount on rocks anymore and I’ve got 2” more droop (from the relocate)
The OEM design on the rear is for the shock to be the limiting factor, so I do not think it is bad for it...