thank you! I don’t know why I couldn’t find anyone make mention of 3/16 mf on the internet! I’ll see if I can’t find an adapter like that, I’m assuming the other end is 1/4.
The info on the internet thinks the high side port should be 1/4” flare aka 7/16-20 but in reality it is the same size as a Schrader valve like you have on a tire. The low side fitting is the expected size and I can fit my gauges to it. I am trying to run vacuum in the system with my pump, and I...
Desmog removes a lot of clutter in the engine bay and gets rid of potential leaks since the hoses are plugged, but if yours is in tact you might as well try to just get it functional in case you need it down the line, like others said check out the BB thing in the meanwhile so it’s reversible...
Does this thing come off or do I need a special adapter? None of the fittings or adapters in my AC vacuum pump/gauge/charging kit thread on it. It looks like a Schaefer valve. I can thread onto the low side no problem as it’s a different size. I’m a complete AC noob so please have mercy on me...
Too long since an Update.
It still runs and drives. Gone through slight radiator and electrical system drama. Bought some tacoma wheels and tires off craigslist for $300 for road trips. Working on putting the A/C back in and keeping up on basic maintenance.
Drove from SoCal to WA and back...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mikes-disaster-of-a-landcruiser-project-1992-big-red.1016125/page-9#post-12232666
been a while since I’ve updated though! Will post later.
Good luck on everything. Check out my build thread sometime, also 3F-E, there could be info in there that may be of use to you. Mine was in way worse shape than yours when I started though.
Its the one in the link above. It is a beast and is a direct fit, however it requires an external trans cooler. The original one I had that started leaking was because I did something dumb while installing it.
Update: replaced the radiator and it seems like that was in fact the problem. Also flushed it all while it was out just for good measure. Unfortunately the new thermostat gasket must not have seated properly though, so I have to replace that so coolant stops flowing past the top before it warms...
I want to update this. The problem was my “mil spec” battery terminal. It was installed properly and tight but wasn’t fully making a connection somehow. Fixed that and all is well.
I was under my truck and one of the bottom side nuts are gone! The lug nut I tried didn’t fit so I’m guessing it’s M12x1.25 or M14, anyone know off hand?
I bypassed mine and put in a big trans cooler.
Anyway this weekend I'm going to put the new cooling system in and see what happens. I got distracted by working on the AC while the old radiator is out.
I have a huge aluminum (60mm) radiator for a diesel land cruiser, I think it's just clogged. My stock gauge never left the middle so it probably approached 230 and boiled because it lost pressure somehow from the cap or expansion tank being vented to atmosphere, or at least that's my guess now...
Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to just replace the radiator since it had a pinhole leak anyway and I had been planning on either welding it or replacing it anyway. I’m going to also do a thorough flush of the block and see how that goes. I kinda don’t think the head gasket is blown but if...
Another thing I'm wondering about. It doesn't have the OEM overflow tank. The one I have is sitting lower than the OEM one did and has more volume, however, again, until the day I boiled, it didn't seem to be an issue and again the stock temp gauge never went above middle even when it boiled.
Full or nearly full, with the level in the expansion tank on the cool line more or less. When it was boiling the coolant was past the hot line and nearly about to come out of the tank though.
I guess maybe I need to do a leak down test?