Are you 100% sure it was coolant and not ATF or power steering fluid?
My coolant is yellow, transmission and power steering fluid are red. If you’re using Toyota (red) coolant you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in the snow between the three just by looking at them on the ground.
HA!! I did not know this. Thank you. I want the unequal length springs. I do not need to figure out spacers and everything else.
My brain is to full as it is.
Higher rpm’s at speed do not cause MPG loss (it does, but not in the way you were thinking), its the engine working harder to push through the air. The faster you go, the more wind resistance, the harder the engine needs to work.
There are sooooo many things that affect mpg, tire tread pattern...
So it looks like OME 2863/2864/2865 and 2866 would be the ones I want.
Looks like 2866 has a variable spring rate from 240lbs to 300lbs But still only 18.31” in length, which keeps me close to stock height.
It is time for new springs on my 2004 100 series.
I do not want a lift, although I know new springs will give me one.
ARB website does not give me part numbers, only descriptions and a dealer locator.
I will do all four.
My searches are coming up with different part numbers for the same...
It’s coming from the center of the front end, so front diff bushing sounds like the most plausible.
Prop shafts were just greased with a PM 1,000 miles ago.
All other work was just done last week.
2004 Land Cruiser. 246k.
I recently had the lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends and upper control arms, all sway bar bushings and sway bar end links replaced as well as a alignment.
All four shocks, calipers, rotors, wheel bearings.
Now the steering is really tight and there is a thunk in...
Not at the moment. They are hard to find. Once you find them you still can’t see them.
What you need to do is look where the two half’s come together at the very bottom of the rocker. Then look for the rectangular opening. There are 4 or 6, I do not remember. They are the size of a zip tie, so...
You can throw a couple relays into your glove box and if they start acting up you replace them.
Most relays will start working again if you tap on them, then you buy a new one at the auto parts store and carry on.
Check your sunroof drains in the rocker panels. There are slit’s in the inch weld, they get full of dirt and the water will not drain.
Eventually it will rust your rocker panels from the inside out.
Scheduled maintence is easy to set up and do. Easy as pie to keep track of as well.
Every 5,000 miles oil change and driveline greased.
Every 50,000 miles change the transmission fluid, the gear oil in the transfer case and both differentials, as well as the power steering fluid and fuel...
I do not have a link, sorry.
Yes you can do it yourself. All you need is the correct amount of fluids and a hand pump.
I use Castrol Syntec gear oil, you will need 8qts.
Valvoline Maxlife ATF, again, 8qts.
3 gallons of premixed engine coolant, I use Prestone universal coolant.
For brake...
Only replace head gaskets when they fail.
Skip the dealer. You will pay to much and they are not going to have their best people do fluids and filters. It’s going to be the college kids in the quick lube area doing it, just like at the quick lube.
Every 5,000 miles-engine oil and filter...
Here is the hidden truth about dealerships…they are trained to plug into the cars computer, be told what’s wrong, and replace the defective part.
That is all they are trained to do. Nothing more. They do not diagnosis. They do what the computer tells them.
The advantage they do have is mass...