Like i give a $#it, people like him are the reason i hate using this forum, you try to give advice and they talk down to you like you're retarded wtf talk about toxic!
The relay wire to the fuse box is the fusible link im talking about.I use the OEM relay and it dosent get hot, and the amperage is the same i measurered it its been nearly a decade so i have that as proof while you just speculate.
The 1HD-T and modern engines adujst themselves, the older disels like the 2H, 3B etc. smoke at higher altitudes and you can adjust them to run leaner just like a carbed gasser.
It could be air or your pump might just be sticking. My 70 had the same issue, at first i thought it was air as it would die under load. J removed the fuel lines to the pump and sprayed carb cleaner along with compressed air into it and that fixed it.
It's weather/climate based, at least that's what I was told.I asked the same question what the point of 24 volts was.Rationale behind 24 volt systems? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rationale-behind-24-volt-systems.1241339/
I asked a similar question, and it has to do with regions that have colder climates received the 24 volt system for the ease of cold starting. 12 volt is found in tropical climates, as for which is better , the 12 volt parts are more common. I have a 24 volt bj41.
The first pic shows it ties into the cooling system through a fitting into what seems to be the water pump, second photo the hose connects to metal heater lines that run along side the block. Third photo is where it enters the firewall, and last photo is where it connects to the heater.
You wouldn't have accidentally pulled the connector from the MAF without taking off the horseshoe clip that holds it in when you cleaned it or disconnected it? I did that and pulled the contacts off the the circuit board by accident when I pulled the plug from the MAF.