Hey all - in the process of putting the engine back together from a water pump / timing belt / fan bracket replacement I messed up and pulled the wires out of the plug going into the crankshaft angle sensor. I was able to determine the connector is just a standard F-type 2 wire connector and...
With the front end essentially "open", and a rear differential that is also open, you can turn as much as you want and won't create any torque issues in the driveline by having the center locked. It's just that the center diff isn't really designed for high speed in the locked position. It...
As long as that front is stripped out and not engaging, chances of doing damage to the center diff is pretty small if you don't drive like a madman. I had a CV axle pop out from the front diff while a ways from home, which creates the same issue. Drove it home about 200 miles with the center...
So you now know what the issue is - stripped out hub splines. Just google youtube videos on CV axle replacement for the 100 series landcruisers and it will walk you through the whole process. Be aware that yes you have to jack it up, you'll also need to disconnect the knuckle from the upper...
Okay my 2UZ-FE mechanics out there, have a question on the camshaft bearing cap on a 2UZ-FE in a 1999 LC. I'm doing a refresh including the Timing/Water Pump, Camshaft Seals, Valve Cover gaskets, etc. Goal is to be completely oil leak free for the next multiple years (about 5 years ago did all...
Updating this very old thread - LC now has 340k, 102k more than when I replaced the T's with the PEX. Happy to report I haven't touched the clamps, t's or hoses in all this time and still working just fine. Honestly I haven't even changed the coolant in this time and have maybe added a couple...
I used the exact ones from the first picture. It really wasn't hard at all. The bottom one was a little snug, the top not so much and definitely needs a clamp to keep from leaking due to the pressure in the system. As someone suggested maybe use the lined/smooth clamps instead of the regular...
Sitting here bored tonight and seeing an update on heater t's. Just for fun thought I'd update this thread. PEX t's still in, 2 more years in place with original clamps, 50,000 miles total. Haven't had to add any coolant, system performing perfectly including the rear heater. In my very...
Hey Y'all,
Have a 100 series and thinking about a 40 series. Found one I like as a ready to go but still could make a lot of tweaks and fixing up. Wondering about pricing though and looking for advice. Here is the description and a couple pics
1966 Toyota FJ40, Land Cruiser.Super clean, 350...
The po of the LC i picked up (a relative) had been mistakenly told by a mechanic that the 99 had a metal timing belt and therefore never needed changing. Obviously the mechanic was an idiot, but it meant the LC when I got it had 238k on the clock with the original tb. I changed it out in late...
Man I love the write ups on this forum - just saves so much time. Got the p1121 error, exact symptoms as described by others. Got lucky and found the new OEM apps/tbl from an ebay store auto parts vendor. With overnight shipping less than $225 to my location. Will drop it in tomorrow...
@wpsfan - Yep, still in the beast. One year and about 18k miles later look exactly like they did the day I installed them. Was planning on changing them to OEM's when I first did this, but now leaving them in as a lets see what happens. I lasted check them before and after a 1000 mile trip to...
Long pair of needlenose pliers helps, get a couple thick blankets over the engine cover and basically lay down on top of the engine. Other than that just patience.
I think no one answered because almost no one ever "has" to change it. Apparently they never fail. For me, I went ahead and did it. Not because of oil pressures, but to fix oil leaks. When I got the truck it had been doing a lot of sitting the previous couple years and the form in place gasket...
Once you get the entire assembly out if the vehicle it is just a few bolts and screws to change the booster out. I would make sure to use a good set of flare nut wrenches on the brake lines so you don't mess up the nuts. Yes, you most definitely need to bleed the entire system when swapping...
I did that exact thing - swapped out just the brake booster. There are a few model years of 4runners that used the same booster but a different master cylinder. Once I found that it was easy to locate a booster. Iirc, I paid $200 delivered for one out of a wrecked 4runner with 90k or so...
Have you checked out Craigslist lately? They are three or four in the region that seem to be candidates. Don't know details about any but noticed they are there. Good luck with the search.