Welcome, fellow Aussie. There's a few of us that boot around here. Nice part of the country ya from, albeit dry at the moment. Looks kind of like a sandy colour, rare if it is.
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Yeah he's been doing that for years, and yes they can make decent power as evidenced by many clips of said 2Hs on the drag strip. Not the sort of setup thats built for long term reliability though, short term fun is where there at. I think those are kinda cool but not what the average Joe wants...
@AussieHJCruza had a hj60 turbo'd that wasn't a bad rig at all. Quality Intercooler is a must, but most importantly, as with any idi turbo diesel, it will need a good lean tune.
My tips would be:
Buy the terrain tamer kits, they are comprehensive and use all high quality parts. And are correct for your car.
Use a solid pinion spacer, forget the crush sleeve rubbish as well.
if your rebuilding your diff, buy a new gearset, terrain tamer stock them and they aren't...
I'm having a similar issue in my 79. Jmacx aren't mugs with these things - they have done thousands and maje gear that works.
Swap the rear and front tires and check for any difference.
Check the wheel bearings. Take the hub off and get in there properly, I have seen these things feel tight...
Whats the history of the IP? Notice any changes with fuel consumption? Oil consumption? If so over how many miles have you noticed it to burn x amount?
It's all just click bait rubbish comparisons. It's how these people make their money.
There has not been a like for like with weight, tire size and a tune yet. And they'll continue to string it out to make as many money making click bait videos as they can.
In regards to the R151, I have seen busted 3rd gears, both input and output shafts, stripped splines, stuffed syncros at low kms and more.
360 diffs and gearboxes (melbourne based) has a video on YouTube that explains some of the issues and their fix for the R series box.
Toyota only put the...
I'll be the third aussie here to say a hard pass on the R151. One of our old work N/A 1hzs broke one when it was let of the clutch a little aggressively. Same with the H55f. POS of a transmission in all honesty (yes I'm a toyota man).
Are you running a larger offset on the rear though? It's not how big your tires are, it's when the offset changes that's the problem. How many kms on the vehicle?
Dirty oil is just from too long between oil changes. I can't find it but there is a Toyota manual that states to change the oil every 5000kms when under heavy load. Oil every 5000kms and oil and filter every 10 is my blanket rule.
The newer Toyota engines quite commonly shed chunks of casting...
OP, just looking at your oil, that is absolutely filthy for a 1VD. You need to do a proper oil flush on that engine and get rid of that carbon build up. Look up Cost Effective Maintenance, their suff is the only snake oil that is any good. Grab yourself some of this gear and go to town with it...
@AussieHJCruza and i had one years ago before the later engines were added (1VD-FTV for example) and it was a bit clunky to use but interested to know how you find it, especially with manuals that toyota never printed a hard copy for.
Oil and filter will cost less than a tank of diesel these days😕. At least here in aus. But hey, on the bright side you'll have some great quenching oil for when you go sword making😄
Is that a factory rear sway bar that I spot? Don't think Aus spec come with a rear from factory.
I have one in my DC, I like the way it helps the handling with weight.
If your going to replace the springs anyway first take that massive overload spring out. See how it rides. Then keep removing springs until it rides how you like. It will help you understand what is required to ride good on your truck.
Do not get parabolics unless you are 100% sure of the...
Toyota Australia spec 10k kms for oil and filter. Under high stress I drop my oil every 5k and oil and filter every 10k.
I run 15w-40 semi syn, no manufacturers seem to want to spec that as the preferred oil but Toyota have it listed for the 1VD-FTV. For DPF a 0w40 or 5w40.