i have been searching the threads for sometime now, and can’t find a remedy. In order to install the new runs and or regulator everything seems to say you need to lower the window. How do I lower the window if it is stuck in the up position? When I try to lower the window the battery gauge does jog down, but nothing happens with the glass. Is this a regulator or a guide issue? I have previously taken apart the switch (that spring loaded lock mechanism is a PITA), and cleaned all of the terminals. The window worked perfectly fine, and when we got our first rain since the window has stayed in the up position.
Drivers side window stuck in the up position (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter clarkebkr
- Start date
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'Best way to remove window motor'
Thread title that will help you.
Thread title that will help you.
- Thread starter
- #3
Wow, great reference thanks
Tools needed:
10mm socket hex point.
1/4" Drive ratchet wrench
Door panel pin puller
Phillips screwdriver #2 or whatever the Japanese equivalent is
White Lithium Grease, spray
White Lithium grease, tube
Duct Tape, Roll, 200 MPH rated, 2" wide
Zip Ties, 6", black
Brake Kleen
CRC Electrimotor Cleaner
Crocus Cloth (to clean commutator on motor)
Single edge razor blade (to clean separations between copper sections on commutator)
6p nail or cotter pin puller handle to use to hold commutator in place while trying to set motor body back over motor after you got it set into the brush holder.
Clear 2" wide shipping tape (to cover up all the holes torn in the plastic after removal)
Usually, the window falls down when there is a problem.
If the voltmeter "jogs" when the switch is applied, then the motor is TRYING to work, but cannot.
Remove the door card (the interior panel)
Remove MOST of the plastic covering over the door, over the large openings and the ones in the center of the door. It can stay on up near where the mirror mounts.
Plug the switch housing back into the harness and turn the ignition to "run"
Trigger the switch to see if it will move or "bump". You MAY be able to reach into the large opening and "slightly assist" the track by pulling down gently while triggering the switch. Be careful in the event it suddenly comes loose so you don't pinch yourself.
You CAN remove the window regulator assembly without lowering the window, but it's a LOT harder.
There are (8) screws that hold in the regulator and motor assembly.
First, remove the two screws that hold the lower track to the bottom of the window assembly.
Carefully push the glass assembly back to the TOP and duct tape it to the door frame. I also used a couple of zip ties through the bolt hole and track to hold it in the up position.
Remove the two screws on the short track in the middle of the door.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor. The plug is inside the hole near the front center of the door. Pull the pin out of the door to release the harness, then unplug it.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the motor body to the door.
The complete regulator will now come out through the large opening.
Now you can clean it, disassemble the motor and clean it, lube it all and put it back together.
You can also so a search for "Ford Window Motor" and get more results with pics.
Do you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM)? If not, search for "Hell of a price" and you can download one for free.
Good Luck!
Use white lithium grease to lube it all. I used a combination of the spray type as well as the tube type.
Reassembly is easy and just place the screw heads back into the scratched circles they came out of and you'll be fine.
I'm assuming a LOT on your abilities and willingness to jump into this.
I just did this on my truck and to do the whole boat on the driver's door, it took me 7-8 hours to do COMPLETE with new window runs, inner and outer belt mouldings, disassemble and clean the motor, gears, and regulator assembly, put it all back together.
10mm socket hex point.
1/4" Drive ratchet wrench
Door panel pin puller
Phillips screwdriver #2 or whatever the Japanese equivalent is
White Lithium Grease, spray
White Lithium grease, tube
Duct Tape, Roll, 200 MPH rated, 2" wide
Zip Ties, 6", black
Brake Kleen
CRC Electrimotor Cleaner
Crocus Cloth (to clean commutator on motor)
Single edge razor blade (to clean separations between copper sections on commutator)
6p nail or cotter pin puller handle to use to hold commutator in place while trying to set motor body back over motor after you got it set into the brush holder.
Clear 2" wide shipping tape (to cover up all the holes torn in the plastic after removal)
Usually, the window falls down when there is a problem.
If the voltmeter "jogs" when the switch is applied, then the motor is TRYING to work, but cannot.
Remove the door card (the interior panel)
Remove MOST of the plastic covering over the door, over the large openings and the ones in the center of the door. It can stay on up near where the mirror mounts.
Plug the switch housing back into the harness and turn the ignition to "run"
Trigger the switch to see if it will move or "bump". You MAY be able to reach into the large opening and "slightly assist" the track by pulling down gently while triggering the switch. Be careful in the event it suddenly comes loose so you don't pinch yourself.
You CAN remove the window regulator assembly without lowering the window, but it's a LOT harder.
There are (8) screws that hold in the regulator and motor assembly.
First, remove the two screws that hold the lower track to the bottom of the window assembly.
Carefully push the glass assembly back to the TOP and duct tape it to the door frame. I also used a couple of zip ties through the bolt hole and track to hold it in the up position.
Remove the two screws on the short track in the middle of the door.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor. The plug is inside the hole near the front center of the door. Pull the pin out of the door to release the harness, then unplug it.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the motor body to the door.
The complete regulator will now come out through the large opening.
Now you can clean it, disassemble the motor and clean it, lube it all and put it back together.
You can also so a search for "Ford Window Motor" and get more results with pics.
Do you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM)? If not, search for "Hell of a price" and you can download one for free.
Good Luck!
Use white lithium grease to lube it all. I used a combination of the spray type as well as the tube type.
Reassembly is easy and just place the screw heads back into the scratched circles they came out of and you'll be fine.
I'm assuming a LOT on your abilities and willingness to jump into this.
I just did this on my truck and to do the whole boat on the driver's door, it took me 7-8 hours to do COMPLETE with new window runs, inner and outer belt mouldings, disassemble and clean the motor, gears, and regulator assembly, put it all back together.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #5
I was hoping that I could just help the motor in getting it to retract, but as I have learned from previous times that “while you’re in there” usually pays off in spades. So, here goes another full day project. Thanks for the info, and this is the next project on the list.
Iffin your plastic vapor barrier is wasted you can use any type of plastic you want. If your want the factory shaped plastics with all the right holes and what nots already made you can order new. Some call it a total waste of money. I just got new plastic for around 8 bucks each. None of the work described above is hard to do. Takes some patience though.
Also, his description of the work in previous post is great!
Also, his description of the work in previous post is great!
