Recent content by zerotreedelta

Definitely handy stuff for the little things that help keep em on the road. There's another thread about resin printing for rubber grommets/etc too...good stuff.

There's a few versions of lights and their STLs in the print thread as well - early dome as well as this mid-style too. For those without a printer, $10 is a reasonable snag, though. I think Toyota only sells the cover and base together, was $50ish if I recall, which was why I modeled one up...

Interesting tidbit. If I knew it was coming apart soon, I'd probably be tempted just to give it a good scrape and pressure wash to remove most of the crud and flake, then use something more temporary like woolwax. Rust encapsulator and chassis black won't hurt of course, just a bit more to...

Yeah, unfortunately the "partial box" design used along several sections is great at holding dirt and mud and salt. There's really not all that much to pulling the body - but if doing piecemeal to keep it roadworthy, you'll just have the tradeoff of making some cosmetic and partial...

It's been a bit, but I recall some quirks on getting the right in key orientation too. Some info hiding in the vid here if it helps:

Agree 100%, it's really about seeing improvement for the area under the curve. I'm pretty sure the only HP # I'll win is the record for the lowest on the Dyno. 🤣 Definitely curious to see what we find for part throttle (main driving) vs closer to WOT (moreso for odd occasions like climbing a...

Yeah, 91 would really only buy a little timing. I did lean it out a little bit extra down at lower MAP, was dabbling with mpgs and it didn't mind it at the lower power there.

Realistically, it will be more of a driveability tune, I'm not expecting too much from the ol 40. I actually suspect I'm leaving both power AND MPG behind. And I'm sure one could get close with road tuning and a friend in the passenger seat, but that's a bit more time consuming.

I've always been curious to gather some data and see what self-tuning leaves on the table, or what I might be leaving on the table for timing as I just mimic'd OEM dizzy curves. So...I've got a timeslot booked on the local chassis dyno for an afternoon of twiddling. Currently it runs well...

For the new metal, I just smoothed mine. I did leave the factory sealer that was in good shape in place for the firewall and cowl, though.

Checked the handheld, couldn't find it on there at all. I found it in the Windows app using the laptop for tuning...but it's evidently available on the CANBUS as data, so in theory, Holley could add it as a dash/widget.

Well, it's in seconds, not hours...but it does track engine runtime apparently. This is via the laptop software, I'm not sure if there's a page that shows it on the handheld. I've got about 3000 miles on mine now, so apparently I averaged 19mph...seems fitting for a 40. (My main trips are...

All buttoned up - ended up welding the ball-joint since there was already a v-band for the 2.5" downpipe I had prior. Nice and tidy, and now it's only the header gasket and the v-band for the whole exhaust...a nice cleanup from all the possible leak-points in the factory manifold. I did get a...

Yeah, it was a bit sporadic. Mine came through Lousiana, would be interesting to see if there was any correlation between P.O.E. or dealer and location preference.

Good question on the Aisins, can't say I've seen one. One-owner '76 here - dealer put it on the heater duct, which I kind of like. Keeps the dash cleaner, and realistically it's by the 4x shift lever, which makes a bit more sense than by the headlight switch.