Recent content by zerotreedelta

Also pulled the box - interestingly, the leftover harness there can be handy. It runs through the driver's fender bib if I recall. I'd have to recall how I handled the connector, but I think I "repurposed" a few of the leads for my cruise control install.

Toyota used slightly different than a single DIN size - if looking to use the factory dash hole, would need to be sized a bit off from that (vs basing off of industry standard DIN sizing).

255's on a 17x8 wheel with 0 offset - no rub. You could rotate the drag link to get the notch and clamp facing inward to buy you a little and then adjust the steering wheel in the cab if it's off - seemed like the clamp was closer than the rod-end for mine.

If you want both, you'd need to pick up a tee fitting - pretty readily available, and it lets you run the OEM sender and a gauge on the one port.

In return, I'll have to steal the idea of using a chain sprocket on the rotation point as a nice and simple pin lock. Mine was just all homebrew with a lock screw, but a pin seems a bit easier to finagle.

One minor trick, if you're also doing paint - use longer bolts and then use like a 2" stub of small pipe as a spacer. Just gives a little more access and clearance by keeping the arms offset from the tub a bit.

I'd wager the front just uses those arms to reach the front body mount points. Definitely a recommend, made life much much better - also even works decently for working the fiberglass cap once you're done with the tub.

All you really need is 12v to the coil (yellow) and bump 12v to the starter solenoid (magenta) to crank it. Pull the coil wire and it'll shut down. Add a mechanical oil pressure gauge for now and Bob's your uncle. 😄

Coming up on 4 years already, so far so good. Both the 3M clear PPF and the 45-mil EPDM rubber are holding up pretty well. PPF: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VG8DS0 Glad the info helped, does seem like you're on a similar path. I almost went with your color (it's probably my favorite of the...

If it's more about the inners, I'd be tempted to just get a bead roller and/or find a metalwork shop and just have some metal cards rolled, design of your choice. Less fiddly, and you'd keep the more modern hardware/latches.

Doesn't look like a sleeve offhand, you can see the case hardware screws in one of the photos. My money is that they pulled the heater box, and shoved it through from the back, then used the faceplate to sandwich it. It's possible they did that without pulling the heater, but seems pretty...

Kind of looks like a bit of a wedge-fit...I'd start by pulling the knobs, and you'll likely get access to some thin nuts on each side, and that might let you pull the faceplate off the deck to get a better view. It's entirely possible they finagled it in from the backside and used no mounting...

+1 to the fittings vs molded barbs - I started to model one up as well, but pivoted and basically fixed my factory one with some nylon plugs and threaded barbs instead.

Need those desmodromic valves for control on the high revving 2F. 😆 Curious where it's huffing out for 1 and 2 - intake, exhaust, cooling system, or the buddy cylinder.

Agree, there does seem to be a bit of a gallop while cranking. Curious what both a compression test and the lash show. 🐎