Recent content by ZackR

I have not seen this mentioned either (in the FSM or otherwise) but I have used it once about 10 years ago to get my 94' to start. I was visiting family and had to re position the cruiser around the driveway multiple times in cool weather over 2-3 days and the cylinder walls were eventually...

If the EFI fuse blows again you have more troubleshooting to do. On my 94 a intermittent short in the wiring harness to the 02 sensor would blow the EFI fuse and I would be stopped in my tracks.

The best $90 I've spent on a tool.. Made in Canada and makes U joint removal a breeze in comparison to socket/hammer/vice/C clamp, etc..

Finished up the front driveshaft U joint replacement. I've never done U joints before, it's more of a hassle than I thought it would be until the Tiger tool showed up. As far as I'm aware they are factory from 31 years ago and 340k miles. Getting the driveshaft to break free of the transfer case...

30k for a 30 year old vehicle sight unseen is a pretty big roll of the dice. Like others on here when I looked through the photos there were a lot of little things that left me scratching my head but I've also owned an 80 series for ten years (sounds funny to say it out loud) and have looked at...

Mine has a slow leak that matches yours. In my case it's automatic transmission fluid (red) from the rear seal of the transmission. The transfer case uses gear oil which looks and smells different than ATF. It's on my to do list but I keep finding other things to do instead of dropping the...

Not the photos I was expecting to see based on the title of the post! I concur with @Fj80oregon 's post above. Order new valve and put it back together correctly before messing with the AC any further.

The small OEM filter works great, is easy to get and is inexpensive. I bought a case of them a while ago, they even come with a plastic seal to keep dust out when stored.

Sounds normal to me. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are dying to know if you are in spec you'll need to attach a real oil pressure gauge and measure the oil pressure per the FSM. It sounds crazy but idle spec is only 4.3psi+ .

This is great advice. My cruiser sat in the garage for over a year while I was trying to source a new old stock wiring harness (1994). It was nice not stressing about getting it up and running asap. Same with any major job that once torn open you find additional things that need to be...

Instead of spending money on long thick cables use the funds for a bigger battery close to where the inverter will be. Charge it with a dc-dc charger. The saw charger will use very little power over a long duration, it's the induction cooktop that will be the real load. I'd run some...

If you have a putty knife try that (much less brittle than a razor blade). If not try tapping a flathead screwdriver in there.

Markup is part of the deal when you take it to a shop. The labor rate isn't how much someone is taking home, it has all of the business expenses baked in with a little bit of profit leftover assuming it goes to plan. I get it can be frustrating, hence why so many folks on the forum tackle...

Sounds like you are enjoying the 1-2 shift in 4 low range on a 1994. :cool: For those without a 93/94 the shift is drastic, you keep building RPM in 1st, it seems like its about to shift but doesn't, then boom you hit 2nd and it lurches forward. Often when going slow in low range I just leave...

In my case I was due for fresh coolant so I just drained it from the radiator petcock into a 5 gallon bucket. I still recommend upper intake removal + bypass style for the PHH. I did this on mine a few years ago and it was very straightforward.