Recent content by Stevelugzit

I second the starter. I had an issue like this and another where it would just click once with each key turn. New starter and relay resolved the issue. Id recommend picking up a new starter and a new relay for peace of mind. This should fix your issue. Repair is exaggerated in its complexity...

IF you have not pulled the windshield fully off you just cant tell how extensive this is. If you plan on keeping the vehicle I personally find the doing it right once and being done with it approach to yeild happier results than tempoary patch jobs. Of course this may not be an option for you...

Okay perfect so I can just snap belts instead of doing maintenance thanks guys!!! (I’m kidding I just replaced my belt and pump at 294,000)

Afternoon all. I have just spent the last 2 hours after work messing with my cruiser. First of all I disconnected the sway bar from the truck. Noise remained but somehow felt twice as common and worse. (Maybe placebo) I was pretty sure at this point I was in for all new ball joints but as I was...

1998-2005 are non interference? can someone confirm this because this is news to me.

Oh and a note to anyone doing this job, buy intake manifold gaskets. Dont reuse them. Also ensure you tighten the manifold in a cross order overlapping 3 TIMES. I went over mine twice. Car ran good, sitting at a light and the engine light came on for the cruiser running lean. Thought it was...

Little late to this post, but I had an identical issue and thought it was the relay. Bought the relay and kept it in my glove box until the old one "fully went bad". Well all of the sudden, click, click, click with each key turn. Pulled relay and put new one in and car wouldnt even start...

I also have a clunk on my driver side. Is yours more of a metal hitting metal kind of clunk like a bad bushing or is it more of a pop?

Maybe not the most technical way to check but just have someone rev the car while you look at the engine. If it moves anything more than an inch at most then your mounts are probably not looking so hot

Ill end up doing all 4 ball joints here soon then. I know my hub flanges and Cvs are good. Just replaced my CVs. flanges were in good shape and while I was there I did Diff bushings too. They were pretty rough aswell. After work today Im going to take off the plates and dig around trying some...

Good to know. Im sure ill be looking at replacing them soon in that case... Do you really think that little play could make a quite loud clunk everytime I load the suspension. It, to me, sounds more like something metal hitting something else metal.

Good morning everyone, I have tried all that was suggested. everything is tight. I lifted up the vehicle by the control arm and pried at the bottom of the wheel. No more than a millimeter of play if even on the ball joints. I am starting to think that it may be either my shock tower bushings...

probably a little late to this thread but that shouldnt be able to be moved at all. To remove them you need prybars if thats an indicator of how tight it should be

Id put whiteline bushings on if you have no intentions of replacing the rack. I had bad bushings and went ahead and got a whole new rack since mine had some small leaks and I don't intend on ever selling it so why not just do the refresh. Id also get outer tie rods while you are at it since if...

If you are not confident in rebooting I 100% would not personally. Doing CVs yourself is not hard. I just did mine and the hardest part was trying to get the castle nut back on my poor 300,000 mile upper ball joints that were messed up. I can only recommend OEM parts. New toyota axles will last...