Recent content by Rifleman

Just as an update to my post 3 years ago, If you're looking to buy a used Snap On MT2500 scanner try and find it with the last generation of programmable troubleshooter cards. Snap on Came out with these cards sometime in the early 2000's, and stopped offering updates for them around 2009. So...

When you do this repair you might want to think about ordering some factory Toyota Allen head drain plugs from Kurt at CRUISERTEQ.COM that sit a little lower in that ring then the old style hex plugs do, plus they come with a Magnet. At only $6.25 a piece that's a hell of a deal...

I'd suggest putting a little dab of copper antiseize on the O2 sensor threads if the new sensors didn't already come with it applied. Using antiseize on the threads will make removal of the sensors later on alot easier. But just a word of caution, make sure the antiseize doesn't get on the tip...

When i ran into problems like this with customers cars that had lots of rust. I would take a small die grinder with a sanding disk and grind the head of the bolt flat, Then i had a clean surface to weld to. I would then weld a nut onto the rusted bolt, now i had something i could put a socket...

Moving forward i will now only buy, and pickup up parts from my local Toyota dealership, instead of mail ordering those parts. I may end up paying more money for those parts, BUT, and it's a BIG BUT, if i order from my dealership i can open up the package right in front of the parts counter...

This seems to be the state of shipping/packaging now a days no matter where you order parts from. In fact the packaging from Toyota for a brand new factory radiator is NOT any better, ask me how i know. Below is a photo of the factory Toyota packaging that my 400 dollar radiator came in. To say...

Your right i just looked on line and Rock auto still has the OEM Aisin listed for sale for $503 bucks. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6420792&cc=1276679&pt=50305&jsn=477

Due to the fact that I've got a full machine shop at home, In the 10 plus years that I've owned my Land Cruiser I've made a few different specialty tools. Below are a few photos of some of the seal and bearing race drivers I've made. I know, i know, some people will say why didn't you just buy...

Just my 2 cents, the most important thing I'd bring on an overland trip would be a cell phone with AAA on speed dial, and a HIGH LIMIT credit card for all the other problems you my encounter.

Using Red RTV around gasoline is not recommended due to its inability to withstand the high temperatures and the potential for degradation. It is advised to use Optimum Grey RTV, which is specifically designed to resist gasoline and is suitable for engine components with gas and oil mixtures...

I'll admit it, It's an addition, I just can't say no to a good tool deal. I bought a Snap On 20 to 100 foot pound torque wrench, a Snap On pilot bearing puller, along with a bunch of Snap On, Mac, SK, and blue point transmission snap ring pliers all for 100 bucks. Turns out the old mechanic i...

That's money well spent on some quality parts that will last you for many years to come.

You see that hole just to the left of your thumb in the above photo, that's the source of your water leak, Since you have that trim strip off I'd put sealer on all of the studs that fit into those holes before you reinstall that strip, that should stop water leaking in and getting all over your...

The next item you might want to spend some time, and money on, is your heater control valve hoses, By looking at your photos those hoses are original due to the fact they still have the factory cotter pin hose clamps in place. Seeing as they are now over 30 years old, you just might want to...

Depending on the year truck you're working on, (my truck is a 1994) below is a link to a thread that lists the changes that Brexhaust and Ansa made to the new mufflers that they sell for our trucks, starting at post #22, https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bolt-in-factory-muffler-replacement.1347502/