Recent content by rainingagain

Here’s mine. Stock exhaust. Stock mounting bracket in the stock location. Springs fully extended. Mid 66 build date.

Also this. Don’t hose down the fins. Light coats.

I when bomb canning generally use a high temp gloss black. That’s what OEM was basically. If you don’t want the black paint flaking off in like 2 years, clean the s*** out of it and get it good and dry. Then first hit the bare brass with some self etching primer, then a top coat of a sandable...

Mr quick draw here... 1 minute after the posting haha!

Ding ding! Self etching is for bare surfaces - metal, fiberglass, some plastics. It's there to provide a hold for the next layer of primer to adhere to rather than the bare material. You really don't want to apply your paint directly to the self-etching primer. It can handle a little rust, like...

Yep, still available from Mr T.

Nice rig. Need more pics. Underside, interior, engine bay, etc. Just some honest feedback, the way you worded the coolant leak sounds like a cracked block. Needs pics of it. GLWS

Damn sorry to hear about this. I’ll keep my feelers out. My best theft prevention technique is to pull the coil plug wire and take it with me.

Here is my rebuild. PNW 67 Patina Blue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-67-patina-blue.1289865/page-9#post-14793531 Hope it helps.

Apparently it's impossible to exceed the weight limit of 70 pounds on their small flat rate boxes even if filled with the densest substance on Earth but damn people sure do try!

Awesome! So lets read the tea leaves here... The overlay is still intact, no copper showing. So not put under heavy loads for long periods of time and/or you have low mileage. If copper was showing, it's likely they are all like this and your new rear main would be leaking again in short order...

Lucky!

Does the fuel pump primer move freely?

I got some heater pipes from some dude out there. Hmmmm…

Did you happen to snap a pic of the bearing surface? 😃