Recent content by r2784c

Early '80 FJ40 Parts for sale: All parts listed below are genuine Toyota parts, NEVER installed 1) Heater Hose - Toyota Part # 90916-01163 -- List $16, Asking $9 + Shipping 2) Exhaust/Intake Manifold gasket (2F) - Toyota Part # 17172-61041 -- List $59, Asking $35 obo + shipping 3) One front...

Early '80 FJ40 Parts for sale: All parts listed are genuine Toyota parts, NEVER installed 1) Choke Cable Assembly (Rod Assembly including knob in cab) - Toyota part # 78310-90310 -- List: $78, Asking $45 obo + Shipping 2) Heater Hose - Toyota Part # 90916-01163 -- List $16, Asking $10 +...

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Early '80 FJ40 Parts for sale: All parts listed are genuine Toyota parts, NEVER installed 1) Choke Cable Assembly (Rod Assembly including knob in cab) - Toyota part # 78310-90310 -- List: $78, Asking $55 obo + Shipping 2) Heater Hose - Toyota Part # 90916-01163 -- List $16, Asking $10...

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I have the stock cooler line...it is included in the kit. Pics on their way...

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FJ40 OEM power steering for sale. Complete kit from 1979 FJ40. Includes pump and resevoir, bracket, PS box with pitman arm, High and low pressure hose, and shorter steering column shaft. Note, entire column not included, just shaft. Asking $900 OBO. Please send PM....

Just wanted to give an update. EGR cooler is now off. The reason exhaust was coming out of the bolt hole was because the cooler had disintegrated near the hole. Also got the remaining broken bolt out (just welded a nut to it). At this point, I decided to keep them off. Made a blank to cover...

Thanks for the advice. I agree with you Poser that the inside is most likely rusted out as there shouldn't be any exhaust gas leaking out the bolt hole. Some more history, when I first started this little project the bolt head was rounded. So I welded on a bolt to the top of the rounded bolt...

Ok, I broke the cardinal rule and f'd with the EGR cooler (1980 FJ40). One of the two bolts mounting it to the block snapped, the other came out no problem. My only goal was to loosen the cooler enough to get enough play to allow the EGR pipe to seal to the manifold, then tighten the cooler...

thanks for link, but don't see any pics/exploded diagram view. Just part numbers. Not sure how that answers the question...

why do i need to pop out the bearing? With the c-clip removed and the cylinder out I lightly tapped the cylinder housing towards the steering wheel end of the shaft and it appeared that the whole unit would just side off. If this happens I was just planning on repeating the same disassembly...

All that is left is to remove the key mechanism from shaft (including the key barrel, the bearings, grey metal casing) . Does anyone know how to do this?

3/80 build date - 1 piece shaft.