Recent content by MontyFJ80

I'm interested if you want to PM me.

Imagine a rod with a tire on the end and try to spin it, and if you make the tire bigger it gets harder to spin; it requires more torque. To reduce the strength or torque needed after putting on bigger tires you can change gears in the transfer case and or in the front and rear diff, the bigger...

If you really think your gears might bad you could just pull the diff and check, or maybe shine a light through the drain plug and look. Stock gears are likely fine with 33's and could always be changed later if needed.

ARB's for the semi-float drum axles have a weaker differential than the full floats. You have to be able to get into the diff to put the c clips on the shafts so there are two gears instead of four on the FF. Several lockers only have two gears so they aren't as strong as possible but you don't...

I have a ravpower 600amp and I have used successfully on many vehicles/lawn equipment except for a 7.3l diesel ford. I also later saw a youtube comparison; Project Farm test that mainly panned the noco boosters.

Bent axles can put a bunch of pressure on your differential causing wear and possible breakage. I think its possible to mod a open housing to fit a elocker if you had too. I wouldn't drive it a bunch personally, or try different ways of running in 2wd until I could get another housing or un-bend...

Try greasing your u-joints and drive shaft, it could just be they're in a new angle and growly. Also check to see if your drive shaft is rubbing the sway bar. And last free check would be to see if your front bearings are ok.

I installed the OME caster correction bushings, then took the arms off after about 8 months and 8000 miles. they were mainly alright nothing too impressive, just some pinched looking poly near the inner sleeve. Thats with 35's and plenty of off road driving.

Each end of the tie rod has opposing threads, that way you can get an alignment without having to remove the whole assembly. Anyways there should be some thread showing to look at the direction of the thread. Heat and some kind of lube worked, so did having a vice. Since the ends are split you...

No spark usually means efi relay, somewhere there is a post about the wires to the relay being junk and too thin so people replace them. Mine were replaced when I bought it.

They're big floppy fuses

They hook onto the battery, link to another post 91 has the same ones as in the link, you could jump past them with some wire for a cheap temporary test

You can check the fusible links for resistance, or just replace them.

1998+ 7x/10x Series Aisin Hub/Drive Flange Stud Kit- $5.00 Six required per side, 12 per axle Includes Stud, Cone Washer, Flat Washer & Nut (Fits 1/1998-2007 7x/10x Front & Full-Float Rear Axles) Part# HUB9807KA 1998+ 7x/10x Aisin Hub/Drive Flange Dowel Pin - $2.00 OEM Toyota - Two required per...

Cruiser Outfitters has the stud/washer/conewasher/nut kits " Aisin Hub/Drive Flange Stud Kit - $8.00/each OEM Toyota - Six required per side, 12 per axle Includes Stud, Cone Washer, Flat Washer & Nut (Fits 1958-1/1998 40/55/6062/80 Front & Full-Float Rear Axles) Part# HUB6997K " or just the...