Given this, I don’t have recent experience with OME springs though 2” shouldn’t change your caster much. I’d start by checking for loose steering components (I.e. steering box, knuckles, tie rods, u-bolts, lug nuts, etc.). You might also start by taking a baseline measurement of your alignment...
Depending on the shims that you get, your center pins will most likely need to be longer to reach the perch, plus be long enough to sandwich the shim with the spring pack. Think of them as if you were adding in another leaf.
I wouldn’t use pipe either. If you don’t know what your current bar is made out of, get DOM tubing and make at least a 4-point roll bar or get a factory roll bar. Be safe.
Thanks, Evan! I’m still shocked that it fired on the first turn of the key, especially considering that I got a few wires in the wrong place initially, which I caught on a final QA check. The engine ran okay considering that one coil pack is damaged and I don’t have the O2 or MAF sensors hooked...
Ha! This is as good as it gets for me. It’s strong but it’s no show quality, not that it really matters as none of those beads showed through after paint.
I was waiting to learn more about this donkey that I thought I was missing this whole time. I’ve often thought that your welds came from a tig before I asked. Mine look like RTV that came rushing out of a tube compared to your welds that look beautifully uniform.