Rear Lower Control arm skids w/hardware $100 + shipping
Rear lower shock mount guards w/hardware $150 + shipping
Both sets are brand new, never installed.
Its a little softer small bump sensitivity and mid stroke. Also a little less vibration and heim joint noise w the hd rubber bushings.
I think the fcp is a little closer to what I want for city driving. Also, the icon stage ones in the rear seem a little small for a 100. I had one blow early...
Timing is good! The heater wasnt blowing hot through most of the cooling system bleeding, but eventually I rev’d the engine a few times and that solved it immediately.
I havent turned it yet. Belt is new, but the marks are different from the one I installed on my 100. Both mitsuboshi. It seems like this one has marks a little further from the single crank mark for the keyway instead of the hole. I appreciate your input.
Also this was RH before removing belt
I think the warm idle issue may be attributed to not having the idle up valve and VSV installed. I’ll get around to it eventually. Swapped in a new ngk coil and its not smelling so rich when I drive it.
Next thing is to swap out the leaky pinion seal on the rear diff- same goes for my 100...
So far I fixed an exhaust leak, replaced coolant temp sensor, swapped iacv, plugged egr vacuum port, messed w timing a lot, adjusted tps (think I did it correctly) may get the allen bolts to adjust while the truck is running.
Theres been a big improvement, but really want a smooth idle.
Finally just fired her up yesterday, seems to be running alright. Probably due for a valve adjustment. Hopefully get the brakes sorted today. Just over a year ago I started this thread…
Had a similar issue w no power to driver door speaker and tweeter in my 98 100. Pulled the door harness, and found that the speaker wire had severed in the door boot. Soldered back and now good as new, need to work on my soldering though 😂
This thread was a big help.