Rear Lower Control arm skids w/hardware $100 + shipping
Rear lower shock mount guards w/hardware $150 + shipping
Both sets are brand new, never installed.
Its a little softer small bump sensitivity and mid stroke. Also a little less vibration and heim joint noise w the hd rubber bushings.
I think the fcp is a little closer to what I want for city driving. Also, the icon stage ones in the rear seem a little small for a 100. I had one blow early...
Timing is good! The heater wasnt blowing hot through most of the cooling system bleeding, but eventually I rev’d the engine a few times and that solved it immediately.
I havent turned it yet. Belt is new, but the marks are different from the one I installed on my 100. Both mitsuboshi. It seems like this one has marks a little further from the single crank mark for the keyway instead of the hole. I appreciate your input.
Also this was RH before removing belt
I think the warm idle issue may be attributed to not having the idle up valve and VSV installed. I’ll get around to it eventually. Swapped in a new ngk coil and its not smelling so rich when I drive it.
Next thing is to swap out the leaky pinion seal on the rear diff- same goes for my 100...
So far I fixed an exhaust leak, replaced coolant temp sensor, swapped iacv, plugged egr vacuum port, messed w timing a lot, adjusted tps (think I did it correctly) may get the allen bolts to adjust while the truck is running.
Theres been a big improvement, but really want a smooth idle.
Finally just fired her up yesterday, seems to be running alright. Probably due for a valve adjustment. Hopefully get the brakes sorted today. Just over a year ago I started this thread…
Had a similar issue w no power to driver door speaker and tweeter in my 98 100. Pulled the door harness, and found that the speaker wire had severed in the door boot. Soldered back and now good as new, need to work on my soldering though 😂
This thread was a big help.
Threw in a used dual diaphragm booster and 1” master, and a new clutch master. Luckily didn’t need an extra spacer for steering shaft clearance.
Haven’t see anything about the connector compatability, but I soldered the one from the old reservoir onto the new one.
Back on track today.
If anyone reads this in the future has to redo timing leave the water pump installed on the cover.
Also if you are leaving the oil pan on, it would help to apply rtv between the head and the portion of the head gasket that goes between the head and timing cover. If you do...
This is the week of extra work apparently. Went to bolt up the drivelines, and realized I installed the drive flanges backward.
(The larger drive flange goes in front)
She’s gettin real close to driving though!
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately, I really did screw things up. Its surprising because I usually triple check everything, and had no probs when I did the timing on my 2UZ.
Anyway, got things taken apart and we’re looking much better now. Thankful these little motors are so easy to work on.
Welp. I think I screwed up with the timing chain install. I believe I lined up the link w the dimple on the cam gear and the crank key on the crank gear. I believe the dimple should have been down. At least from my photo
Will put the crank at tdc tomorrow and see where the cam gear is.