I was too frazzled to check in the moment. If it happens again hopefully I'll be able to slow myself down and check. The relay is about 1 year old OEM so if the new one is starting to act up... I don't know.
Just a follow up. Today at a gas station I had a crank, no start issue. It acted exactly the same as before. I tapped on the relay with my hand and the truck started right up.
That efi relay was very expensive! @medtro I'm going to message you about cost. Thanks
Mine was running about 200-210 in just about any temp. I put a new thermostat in and the temps dropped to around 195.
Pretty sure the thermostat was not opening all the way. You're doing what I would do first (assuming your radiator is clean).
1. If I remember correctly they are a little lop sided from the factory. Maybe not that much but some. I wouldn't change them at all until you have the bumper support brace to bolt on (if you decide to put a factory bumper back on)
2. @scubadoober said, looks like someone has been there...
Same exact spacer I was running with OEM wheels. They're about $115 on Amazon. I only took them off because I brought aftermarket wheels. I trust them but to each their own. I firmly believe must failures are from user error.
I had spidertrax on my Tacoma. My level of worry was the same.
I believe most of it has to do with whether or not the torque converter is locked. It locks in 4th and 5th but not 3rd. I tow in 4th and try not to let it drop to third much which sometimes means going a little slower in the show lane. But on steep hills that's not possible but the steep hills...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/intermittent-crank-no-start-intermittent-dead-battery-solved.1348872/
Some similarities but quite a few differences. For example, your condition number one should rule out the main relay. But I think I thought I would share anyway.
Kind of sounds like a loose...