Recent content by greasysmitty

Maybe I’ve missed something here, but has this thread died? Andre, what’s the STATUS? You won’t remember me, but I talked to you a few times on the forum back in ~2006 when I started an eerily similar conversion, putting a factory new, unused, still crated(!) 4BT into a LR series II 109/...

So long as you can get it to wear in correctly, absolutely. I'll get a new one.

Ahhh sooooo.... From reading this post, it looks like the shift collars DO wear exactly this way... there are pics! Not so much on the coast side as the load side. BUT, you can clearly see how far the shift collar should be engaged, and the wear "divits", like in my booty diagram...

Undercut??? Gahhhh??? Does such a beast exist? :eek: :eek: :eek: Surely you must be joking...

No... no... thats not what I meant at all! I guess I didn't word it right. I meant to be ENCOURAGING... like "you should try stuff that you haven't done before and just be patient and ask questions", not "leave it to the pros, dumbass". Sorry if you got the wrong impression fjw. My bust...

Pic posted by Trollhole on Posers pic thread also shows straight cut dogs from a 4spd case... no apparent taper. What would seem to be more likely as a potential "wear in" phenomenon for this type of dog is that the concave/internal splines on the shift collar would wear a little divit in the...

No offense at all to any of the less "technically inclined", but at some point you just have to realize what is and is not within your grasp and experience level. If you don't have access to a good shop and precision tools, you've got to realize the limitations of the work you are able to...

Yeah… I thought about the case hardening thing but I didn’t know whether they did it to these gears or not. Makes sense… duh. You wouldn’t want to cut through the hardened layer on the dogs even if you could. Prolly only 10 thou thick or so. No good. Straight dogs until they design...

Check out my post on PBB about your U-joint angles. Badass looking rig… sweet color! Glad to hear she’s running a little smoother.

Steve – you are the man. That explains a lot to someone like me who’s been just imagining these parts. Great pics… almost looks like you used a macro lens! I’m going to chance it on this case. I think the neutral problem can totally be solved from what I’ve read on this board. I agree...

TTT - anybody come up with any fantabulous breakthroughs with their case? I am seriously looking at buying one... like real soon. Want to get my project started in earnest over the holidays. I'm still trying to figure out whether you could do some hand work on the dog teeth of the new...

I found a T-case up for sale, but it’s a 10 spline/ 3 spd case and has a vacuum shifter. How would this work for an Orion swap in terms of strength of the retained parts? I know the 10 spline is the less desirable configuration, but isn’t the real weak point of the factory case the alum...

I'm seriously thinking about getting an orion. Anybody that has (or has seen) a donor T-case for sale? Which is the most desireable/ strongest donor candidate? I have a project that I just have to get going on...

OK… so maybe this problem isn’t as wide reaching as I would have initially thought. Any feeling (especially from people who regularly deal with these cases like you mark) about whether you could hand broach a slight taper on the replacement gears with a jewlers file to help with the breaking...

OK - here's a question then. Is there anyone out there that has MADE the modifications talked about here (new parts, good detent operation, and installation of thrust washers to eliminate axial runout of gearsets) and can *STILL* say that their stuff pops of gear? :doh: Cause that would be...