i did the same mod as BJ40 and linus,also took off and blocked off the EGR at the head,no more pipe sticking up.
i was alot more confident putting the harness back together being able to see everything.
yea i had to find the happy spot
take the wiper off and cycle it a few times then reattach.
mine acts up every so often and i have yet to figure out the gremlin.
sometimes it works with hatch up but not down then it will work with hatch down then i run into the reset problem where it sweep half...
fender flares 1994 with rear mudflaps,complete set front and rear.one set painted black i may have the gaskets as well.
100 dollars picked up in sugar hill.pm me here
not interested in shipping.
did you check to see if its a theft recovery,it was probably sold at auction at some point.if you have a clean title issued by the state i wouldn't worry about it.
the replacement tag on the door pilar is what a lot of states do.
Mine gets the same yeast infection on the oil filler cap in cold weather,I am running red but have never seen any color tint to the infection on mine.short trips in winter=spooge on cap.
pretty much then you start getting into,cams, piston design,fuel delivery.a large oval or round port =less restriction until the exhaust cannot scavenge any more then it starts developing back pressure.balance is the key.with direct port injection you can move lots of air.
Anytime you improve air flow through the motor the power range shifts up,cat delet,long tube headers,port work.inline motors have inherent good torque in lower rpm ranges.so here you have the best of both worlds.
good work,get rid of that rev limiter.
EGR deleted well over a year ago and did not see any temp increases,even sitting in traffic in the georgia heat with the a/c running.
i am using an OBD1 too scan to monitor engine temp,when i was sitting at a stop light i would see 197-203(a/c),blue hub fan dropped me down to 191-193.