Recent content by Freeborn

OK. $50 for Remflex seems like a reasonable experiment to run with OEM manifold. I'll give that a shot and see how the pressure test goes. Fingers crossed that it goes awesome. Thanks for the tips. Will report back.

Well that's encouraging. Which headers are you running? A quick search shows JT Outfitters to be the most "cost effective" and Manafre to be the most "sophisticated". Any strong opinions?

Quick update and a question for the folks following along... Got everything apart and ordered parts. The rings+springs are ridiculously expensive. The OEM gasket for the interface with the head isn't much better. After all that, I put a straight edge across the flanges and figured out that my...

OK. This is super handy info. Thank you! What I'm reading that I might not need to pay $60 x 4 for the rings+springs in there? That would be amazing.

The facts: 1978 FJ40 with rebuilt 2f and original (afaik) intake+exhaust manifold There's a long story behind this post, but the punchline is that I have a bunch of exhaust leaks that I need to take care of. All of the gasket-oriented ones are no big deal. But... Has anyone ever dealt with an...

Update: Got another 60-series-compatible internally-regulated alternator installed per @Coolerman 's directions. Works like a champ. Figured out that the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery is because of the long run between the two. Nonetheless, my voltage at the battery is...

Only problem is that this doesn’t explain the voltage difference at the battery when I run a line directly from the alternator to (+) vs hooking up the original charging wire to the back of the alternator.

Sunnuva...(shakes fist) @charliemeyer007 gets the gold star for calling it. I detached all the things hanging off my positive terminal and tested each with my ammeter...When I got to the charging wire I got -2.7 amps. As soon as I removed the wire from the alternator end it went to 0.0...

OK. More data... New battery installed. ...and drained overnight. Any time the battery is hooked up, my ammeter shows a small discharge, even with the key off. I've verified that the needle zeroes out with the battery disconnected. I removed all the fuses. Still discharging. I removed the fuse...

The journey continues, but I've made progress... I grabbed a compatible alternator with internal voltage regulator (searched for 1986 Land Cruiser alternator and ended up with this one, for future searchers). The thinking is that this eliminates a variable from the equation. To check things out...

Right. I know that the alternator is working. When I swap out the voltage regulator for a new one it works *too* well.

Good point. That’s exactly what the voltage and ammeter look like regardless of temp, though.

Link? I didn't see anything obvious.

Follow-up question: Is there a compatible alternator with an internal voltage regulator? It seems like that could save me a LOT of time and frustration.

After spending lot of time studying wiring diagrams and measuring resistance across the wiring harness, I'm 90% sure that my wiring is just fubar'd. I think my path of least resistance (see what I did there?) is to just fashion my own harness for the voltage regulator. Questions: 1. Does...