Recent content by FJoe40

The mileage on the 2F is unknown but it meets the minimal benchmark of compression and is close enough through all the cylinders to be mechanically acceptable. Thrust, cylinder walls, end play on the rotating assembly and the block were measured with a mic and or examined. No tailpipe...

Watch that belt tensioner....you probably already know. My former boss and I were halfway to Anchorage when his 7.3 let loose. That 13' serpentine wrapped around the fan, ripped the alternator harness and busted the trans cooler lines in one spectacular nest of he11. The Ford recall policies...

It's me, Joe We painted it as close to the original color as possible (Horizontal blue, Horizon Blue, Fluorite Blue) Front and rear final drive is 4.11:1 No power steering, no brake booster. I used a 95 Toyota power box on my 69, the Saginaw setups are a kludge and ruin your frame....forever...

I think Unicorn Dust is another name for the cold climate auxiliary accelerator pump, altitude compensator, and the anti-backfire valve found in some stock Aisin carburetors....none of which are found on a Weber. Dude, that video got me laughing. ('Cause it's true....)

For the record: I have only used the words "Horizontal Blue" when referring to the original color of this Cruiser. Fluoride Blue and Horizon Blue have been tossed about as examples of what it might look like.

Nearly 70% of crank pulley contact and just under 50% of the alternator pulley...so no slipping there. Less tension makes for longer lasting bearings and belts as well. It will have a Meziere inline water pump, a four core aluminum radiator and an electric fan. The 3,000+ hour pump is...

Some new park brake shoes....

My best understanding of what goes wrong and where.

So the concept behind this is the chain of forces. The gear on the transmission output shaft is pressing against the idler gear at the forward wall of the bottom half of the case, not much of a structural problem there. The rotation is carried along the rearward half of the idler gear and puts...

y is this here? I mean, Here this y is. It goes there. That bolt behind the shift pin has a lot of support and the pin itself is an unloaded. I'm thinking the next one I build will cover the whole top and include the speedo and park brake flange. It would need a thin spacer for the speedometer...

Don't forget to drill a weep hole at the bottom where fluid spills out.

Anybody can hang a tab on a plate that anchors to a bolt nearby....I'm going to anchor this plate to the rigidity and strength provided by the housing, shaft, bearing, and all five transmission bolts combined. Should I powder coat this some other color besides black? Maybe it would look too...

I like what I see. A five speed and a cast iron case would make it perfect, but this isn't too shabby. It's now together and ready for my favorite part again...making stuff. I'm going to make a brace plate that reinforces the top of the transfer case and ties into the transmission bolt, or maybe...

Together it goes....you have to be patient. Some rods help as things get closer. if it's too tight to move with gentle taps from a dead blow, it could be burs on the splines or as in my case there was wax film on that PTO gear from Australia. I should have cleaned it off. The bolts get some...

Here are some more pictures. Every boot and seal will be replaced on our powertrain including the PTO box.